Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah ive bought a USB to DB25 before, but you're right, I'll try a dedicated parallel one and see how it goes. I did a fair bit of reading up about simulating LPT port in hardware and its a proper broad minded person.

If I chose to tell boss to get stuffed and I buy laptop myself, will be through scorptec (range is very varied and dated laptops still full price) or a metabox (complete customisation + win7).

I've got an 88E buy order at 4.1c. Hoping it gets there. Also got a TV2 buy order at 0.6c, coz fuggit. though I'd like some spending money for Japan next month, dont want to have too much cash tied up in stuff.

I actually don't mind dells, provided you get the right models like the XPS13 decently specced etc. HPs are meh IMO. 

Currently use an Asus for work, as long as it's thin, light AF, and has enough decent ports I'm happy.
Only thing I don't like about my current laptop is no back lit keyboard for working in dark areas, oh and the charger cable could be a little bit longer. 

Some companies really cheap out on their laptop or computer situation then it just bites them in the ass later when they have problems or they're slow as

Edited by UNR33L

Absolutely love my Dell XPS15 (9550)
15" Screen with no bezel so its about the same size as a normal 14" laptop. Not too heavy unlike most with these specs. Current i7, 512GB SSD, 16GB Ram...

Was a bit flakey at the start with a screen which would randomly flicker black for a millisecond every minute or so, couldn't tell if I was going crazy or just blinking... but a firmware update fixed it up after a month or so

I actually need a hardy and practical laptop. Not some $2000 Suzy-stretch, flimsy, touch-screen POS.

So all those 2-in-1 ultrabooks or whatever, are out.

I'm tempted to just buy a machine myself, but I don't think boss would be too happy (I don't know why)

2 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

I actually need a hardy and practical laptop. Not some $2000 Suzy-stretch, flimsy, touch-screen POS.

So all those 2-in-1 ultrabooks or whatever, are out.

I'm tempted to just buy a machine myself, but I don't think boss would be too happy (I don't know why)

Lol well ill let you know if the laptop disintegrates in my hands 

17 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

I just cant see them lasting too long on site or getting moved constantly for 3+ years.

Apparently the thinkpad T series are durable?

Perhaps the T460s. That was another one of my options.

 

I got the x360 due to it being light, portable and touchscreen for client meetings. so probably different purposes to you.

They're all as flimsy as each other (basically) if you want to be rough on it you really only have a couple of options like the toughbook etc. 

Yes they look like shit & are expensive but if you plan on dropping it like the diesel mechanics I used to work with at CAT they're good 

220179-Panasonic-ToughBook-CF-31.jpg

We used to have normal Dell Latitudes for the diesel mechanics, would get them back every other day with broken screens or just generally f**ked, wasn't until a new policy where they'd have to pay repairs out of their own pocket that actually fixed it :) go figure. 

Same thing with phones.

Edited by UNR33L

Steer clear of Lenovo laptops, they are awful. Very flimsy plastic, keyboard and trackpad are unusable to get work done, screen quality is very blurry etc etc.

If you're in the $1k - $2k range I'd recommend something by Asus, above $2k I'd recommend the Microsoft Surface. That's for Windows laptops anyway, which still don't come close to a Macbook Pro in terms of overall build quality, reliability, screen quality and the best trackpad known to man.

On a side note, does anyone know if it's possible to change the spark plugs on an R34 GT-T without removing the breather pipe? I got to that stage but there are like 100 little pipes connecting to it making it quite annoying to remove. The pipes also look flimsy, so don't want to break anything.

On a side note, does anyone know if it's possible to change the spark plugs on an R34 GT-T without removing the breather pipe? I got to that stage but there are like 100 little pipes connecting to it making it quite annoying to remove. The pipes also look flimsy, so don't want to break anything.


You can but its a pain, i just remove and unplug it all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...