Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After the best bit of two years sitting around after popping the gearbox, the car finally made it back onto the rollers in Friday night. It didn't feel right so the tune was stopped. This is what came out of my filters.

7B8030C2-FCC0-4CE5-A699-104D2D45403B_zps

7E9CFC5A-1656-4C62-9FBB-9A9D5FBB65D1_zps

The car was parked with 98 in it too.

A fair amount of silty junk was found in the baskets of the injectors also.

After the best bit of two years sitting around after popping the gearbox, the car finally made it back onto the rollers in Friday night. It didn't feel right so the tune was stopped. This is what came out of my filters.

7B8030C2-FCC0-4CE5-A699-104D2D45403B_zps

7E9CFC5A-1656-4C62-9FBB-9A9D5FBB65D1_zps

The car was parked with 98 in it too.

A fair amount of silty junk was found in the baskets of the injectors also.

what's that gunk?

You running rubber lines Paul? That looks pretty bad...

Some are.

After seeing this, I'll be going back through the fuel system with a fine tooth comb.

I've never had an issue like this before and the car has been using E85 since 2010.

I have seen rubbery crap blocking the injector baskets a few times, I can only guess it's the inside of the rubber hose breaking down.

It's different to the molasses sticky mess that sometimes builds on the injector tip, after cleaning a few Audi RS4 plenums it looks like the same gunk they build up in the runners and around the valves, just a symptom of long valve overlap or high exhaust manifold pressure I suspect. Interestingly it's only one injector that gunks up in some cases, so I can't see the fuel being the direct cause.

Got fresh engine, (i.e so no carbon anywhere) running on E85 for awhile since runin (10,000kms?)

Put a tank or two of 98 in, to satisfy demons in case of evil e85 doing e85y things.

Put E85 back in after sufficient demon-cleansing time

ton of shit in fuel filter and car running lean under boost, thanks, Haltech engine protection!

Knowing exactly 0 about 98/E85's cleansing properties, clearly the combination of the two either causes gunk, or flushes gunk in/out from somewhere, my filter was fine and my AFR's were fine until I put 98 through the car. Funny enough, was fine on 98 also, but obviously less fuel there as less is needed so a partial filter blockage may have had no effect.

Very interesting! Which Haltech has this function for lean out?

Very interesting! Which Haltech has this function for lean out?

I have a PS2000 but many of them have the feature, basically you can input criteria or safe operating ranges and if you exceed them you can have the engine respond. I.e cut all fuel, set a rev limit of 3k, pull timing, or any combination of them.

In my case I have a wideband so it was a "Is my AFR leaner than 12.5 with boost higher than 1psi for longer than 1 second". Combined with auto logging if I'm above 70% throttle, it's pretty easy to determine through logs what happened and why. Can set it to trigger off oil pressure, fuel pressure, various temperatures, etc.

Considering I was driving it just fine on that filter on E85 on many many dyno pulls, Deca day, Drag passes etc and this mysteriously started happening after I ran E85 after a tank or two of 98, AND had a clogged filter (replaced filter working fine now) then I can only hazard a guess that the swapping of fuels caused something to dislodge :P

My 2 cents, I've been running E85 for about 2 years now and only recently gone over to a flex setup... I've also alway have used cheapy Ryco filters and bing then each time I do an oil change. The only thing I can think is that I've replaced all my old OEM Nissan fuel lines with Gates Barricade (except the hose from the LHS side of the tank that cross over into the lid then to the "jet pump".

Not long ago, I decided to pull out my injectors to have a look, they still seem quite happy.

Are those filter elements from the fully hectic alloy 10um filters with cleanable /replaceable elements?

If you cut up a std Nissan steel jobbie one do you expect to see the same thing?

I believe they are stainless mesh cleanable type. But good luck cleaning my old one above.

My 2 cents, I've been running E85 for about 2 years now and only recently gone over to a flex setup... I've also alway have used cheapy Ryco filters and bing then each time I do an oil change. The only thing I can think is that I've replaced all my old OEM Nissan fuel lines with Gates Barricade (except the hose from the LHS side of the tank that cross over into the lid then to the "jet pump".

Not long ago, I decided to pull out my injectors to have a look, they still seem quite happy.

That's a good plan as they are cheap and easy to buy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...