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R32 Gtr Hicas Issue

GoneGoose
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GoneGoose Apprentice

GoneGoose

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I recently imported an R32 Skyline GTR to the US and I am having some trouble with the HICAS (I assume). Since Skylines are still new to the US (only '89s and '90s are technically legal so far) I figured you guys might be a better source of information than most of the people local to me.

The short version is: is it worth trying to troubleshoot a HICAS issue, or should I just get an eliminator kit? Does the HICAS provide any actual benefit? I understand what its purpose is, but I see mixed results about whether or not it is a good thing to have.

A description of the HICAS issue I am having is below.

If I accelerate hard to highway speeds (80+kph) while also turning (ex. using a circle on-ramp/interchange), the steering wheel will move off-center. Meaning the top of the steering wheel will be at the 11 o'clock position rather than 12 o'clock like normal. The car still seems to drive straight when that happens, just the steering wheel is no longer straight. After roughly 5 minutes or 10km, the HICAS light will turn on, and the steering wheel will automatically center itself again so the top of the wheel is at the 12 o'clock position and it will stay that way until I turn the car off.

Also, any time I drive at highway speeds for 5 minutes or 10km the HICAS light comes on, regardless of whether or not the steering wheel goes off-center like in the situation described above.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this has been asked before. I tried to search but didn't see any posts with a problem similar to mine.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459559-r32-gtr-hicas-issue/
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GoneGoose Apprentice

GoneGoose

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In that case, do you guys recommend a simple lockout bar similar to this http://topspeedauto.com/nissan-skyline-gts-t-gtr-r32-89-94-jdm-hicas-bypass-kit-hicas-eliminator/, or a full kit like this one http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-for-nissan.html?

Also, thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.

Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Personally I'd suggest the hicas eliminator kit as you replace a tie rod and a (most probably) worn out ball join with a toe arm and new bushes

A lock bar is much cheaper, you might get some funny faces trying to get the rear aligned with all the hicas gear in there though

Edited by Jordy32
GoneGoose Apprentice

GoneGoose

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Personally I'd suggest the hicas eliminator kit as you replace a tie rod and a (most probably) worn out ball join with a toe arm and new bushes

A lock bar is much cheaper, you might get some funny faces trying to get the rear aligned with all the hicas gear in there though

Driving a RHD car in a LHD country already gets me plenty of funny looks anyway. :cool:

I figured the full eliminator kit would probably be the suggested option, and I was leaning that way myself.

GoneGoose Apprentice

GoneGoose

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Unplug the small plug from the HICAS computer (in the boot, the box mounted on the right side).

Full eliminator kit is the way to go IMO.

Do you have an aftermarket steering wheel?

Do not have an aftermarket steering wheel, however I just imported the car from Japan 1 month ago so its history is mostly unknown to me and the exporter has not been good about providing information. I do have reason to believe it previously had a full roll cage installed so it stands to reason that other aftermarket modifications were installed at one time.

Edited by GoneGoose
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Unplug the small plug from the HICAS computer (in the boot, the box mounted on the right side).

Full eliminator kit is the way to go IMO.

Do you have an aftermarket steering wheel?

The other things you (may) like to consider is all the pumping and pressure lines that serve the HICAS. You can just loop the thing and render it inoperable or you can do it properly and remove them. Also worth doing or atleast considering is replacing the standard power steering cooler with a small but decent cooler.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

RE: steering wheels, sometimes the incorrect Boss kit throws the HICAS error (the computer can't figure out if you're turning or something).

But yeah, full eliminator kit is the way to go (it should include the loop for the power steering). Then rip out the HICAS stuff (weight saving!).

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The other things you (may) like to consider is all the pumping and pressure lines that serve the HICAS. You can just loop the thing and render it inoperable or you can do it properly and remove them. Also worth doing or atleast considering is replacing the standard power steering cooler with a small but decent cooler.

I echo this sentiment. Removing the hard lines all the way to the front is easy enough on a hoist. Looping at the rear is trivial if you buy a HICAS lockout or replacement kit that includes what you need. The PS cooler is just a loop of pipe and does very little. An auto trans cooler from an R34 is a bloody good size for the PS cooler.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Define issues? Do you mean just the physical problems of getting it out while the engine is in the bay? I wouldn't expect there to be. The solenoid can be removed with the engine in. The hydraulic lines to the pump and reservoir run under the engine and it is nice to be able to access everything more easily when the engine is out, but I'm sure that needn't be a problem if you're just removing the lines that run to the rear from the solenoid.

Mental note for anyone removing everything.....the R32 pump is a 2 stage (or more to the point a 2 circuit pump) with the rear circuit running the HICAS gear and the front running the PS. If you get rid of all the HICAS plumbing it is a prime opportunity to do something about getting rid of the 20+ year old PS pump in favour of a newer single stage pump. I did this by doing a Neo transplant, but that's cheating. I'm just pointing out that you can't just block off the HICAS lines as the pump is still pumping!

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
Posted

Define issues? Do you mean just the physical problems of getting it out while the engine is in the bay? I wouldn't expect there to be. The solenoid can be removed with the engine in. The hydraulic lines to the pump and reservoir run under the engine and it is nice to be able to access everything more easily when the engine is out, but I'm sure that needn't be a problem if you're just removing the lines that run to the rear from the solenoid.

Mental note for anyone removing everything.....the R32 pump is a 2 stage (or more to the point a 2 circuit pump) with the rear circuit running the HICAS gear and the front running the PS. If you get rid of all the HICAS plumbing it is a prime opportunity to do something about getting rid of the 20+ year old PS pump in favour of a newer single stage pump. I did this by doing a Neo transplant, but that's cheating. I'm just pointing out that you can't just block off the HICAS lines as the pump is still pumping!

Thank you thats great! You can still use the standard power steering pump though right? If you were to replace it which would be the correct one?

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