Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

So I was at a efi shop yesterday and I was talking to the owner about fuel setups.

He mentioned that on all his high performance cars he now runs the Bugatti fuel pumps.

He didn't have any to show me but apparently they are quite long and thin, so they are perfect to mount to your chassis rail, no need for a lift pump as they have two parts, one sucks the other pumps.

They pump out around 750L a minute if my memory is correct and are only around the $450 mark..

An interesting and certainly cheaper option than running lift pumps, dual pumps etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460336-new-fuel-pumps-new-to-me-anyway/
Share on other sites

The brand is Pierburg, they are a nice pump, the only one that will suck fuel up a hose from the bottom of a tank so they have their uses, but installing them is hard in most setups. 750L per minute seems a little optimistic though. :P

There are two types, the higher flowing version is around 360L per hour.

Personally I feel the the Walbro 460L is the better option, and half the price.

  • Like 2

Yeah Scotty I got a 460, it was more for guys needing more, which I certainly won't [emoji16]

More what? They flow 100LPH less than the 460L Walbro does at least, model dependant. The Veyron needs 4 of these Pierburg's I believe.

Im interested, because the REAL Bugatti pump (ti automotive L5LM) requires a brushless motor controller to run. and is bloody difficult to find a supplier, they're around the $700-800 USD mark. plus you need a brushless VSD controller

flows tremendous amounts at high pressures and low current levels. its a progressive cavity screw pump.

there is also a DC version that is similar form factor but only flows ~330lph that will be the pierburg others are referring to. generally is shown with a blue band around the body.

found this place selling the real deal for USD$795.... it flows 458l/hr at 5 Bar (72.5psi), at only 10.5 amps.

http://www.jayracing.com/fuel-pumps-c-2_5/jay-racing-pro-series-l5lm-veyron-brushless-screw-fuel-pump-p-52147.html

L5LM_JR_Data_Sheet.jpg

Edited by burn4005

yea, for that cash a pwm fuellab is the ticket.

you need to be a bit careful if you use the electronic regulator. for cars that snap on boost very suddenly with a big jump in injector flow the pump can be a bit slow to react and you see a pressure dip.

better to map a aux pwm output on a 3d load table from the ecu to pre-empt instead of react.

i've got a boost-a-pump and a 20khz capable solid state relay, will report how a walbro 460 goes at 16v or so on a pwm drive. i've heard numbers like 568l/hr for a 460 at those voltages being thrown around, compared to 389l/hr at 13.5V.

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 2

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__72896__Trackstar_1_10_scale_Street_Runner_4pole_ESC_combo.html

Im interested, because the REAL Bugatti pump (ti automotive L5LM) requires a brushless motor controller to run.

i've got a boost-a-pump and a 20khz capable solid state relay, will report how a walbro 460 goes at 16v or so on a pwm drive. i've heard numbers like 568l/hr for a 460 at those voltages being thrown around, compared to 389l/hr at 13.5V.

Why stop at 16v. Lean on that sucker hard. :P

Kenne Bell have said that the walbros fail with sustained use at 17v and above from their own testing. I only need 420lph or so on e85 at 28psi and 8300rpm if my VE map is accurate, so 16v should do it. I suspect the VE will fall away above 24 or so psi due to the small turbines on the hks2530s, so it will probably end up being less.

Edited by burn4005
  • 2 years later...

Im running the Pierburg L3LM being fed by two holley hydramats, a 17.5v boost a pump and an aston martin fuel pump control module (siemens VDO 7H42-9D372-AA) they take a 100hz signal and up-sample to 20khz pwm power drive.

works great, and the L3LM at 17.5v flows about 430lph at 70psi. and only 17a draw. 

will be attempting 500awkw worth of E85 early next month so we'll see how it goes.

 

image-20171202_173205.thumb.jpg.5c9007b0a23d4aee44610a3d9d690459.jpg

IMG_20171202_203043.thumb.jpg.9f6e8c91f7264a3018ea9df745fb6cf9.jpg

Edited by burn4005

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...