Super Newbie Question About R34 Gtt Auto Tranny, Answer Pls

[YYC34GTT]

This is a dumb question for some but I just want to know the answer anyway.. LOL

ok, aside from installing the shift kit for upgrade what other things you can change/upgrade inside the tranny it self? Anyones insight on this would be helpful

[GTSBoy]

If you take all the gears out, and the brake bands, and the clutches, and then the valve body, and the torque converter, and get rid of the bellhousing and the back half of the case, and replace all those bits with a 5 speed manual.....that'll just about do it.

[Leroy Peterson]

custom fit a TCU and get it tuned. put paddle shifts. traction control. install a second clutch for some DSG braps.

[Trex]

custom fit a TCU and get it tuned. put paddle shifts. traction control. install a second clutch for some DSG braps.

compushift it is.

[Leroy Peterson]

compushift it is.

or PCS.

[Trex]

type your gearbox code into google and see what pop ups. i think the gtt is a re4r01b?

everything i have read has stated that anything that stops slippage is a good thing. on this reasoning alone, many 4x4 guys will run a higher pressure to alleviate slipping at low loads.

call a transmission expert tomorrow and have a chat to them and see what they recommend and their reasoning behind it.

[V28VX37]

I looked into this when I still had the auto in my GTT, most shops just scratch their head when you mention Tiptronic or RE4R0__ to them.

GTSBoy covered your main options above. MV Automatics in SA is typically one of the first recommendations when you want something done to these boxes. I also found something called a Keas shift kit with references to Knox Automatics in VIC, maybe check them out.

Also maybe check with Scotty NM35 and Kinkstaah here they're both running built autos.

The cost adds up pretty quickly and depending on how far you want to go you may want to consider a manual conversion instead. That's what I did.

[scotty nm35]

The cost adds up pretty quickly and depending on how far you want to go you may want to consider a manual conversion instead. That's what I did.

^ This.

Although you have to remember, the auto is then built for decent power and every bearing and seal has been replaced, and the stall converter is matched to your turbo. If you wanted that sort of power through a manual you would need a decent twin plate clutch which can ruin the drivability, then you still have an old gearbox with worn bearings unless you get the manual rebuilt beforehand.

[Kinkstaah]

Buy my entire gearbox and flex plate and torque converter and PCS so I can buy a manual conversion.

Wouldn't even be mad, at this point... that's how much money you have to spend to get comparable to what comes standard in a skyline for $0.

[scotty nm35]

Buy my entire gearbox and flex plate and torque converter and PCS so I can buy a manual conversion.

Wouldn't even be mad, at this point... that's how much money you have to spend to get comparable to what comes standard in a skyline for $0.

Something tells me the torque you are putting to the ground will smash a manual box in no time Greg, so factor in a PPG gearset also.

[Kinkstaah]

The difference in cost for a 'reliable' 300rwkw and 'reliable' 400rwkw is well known for the engine.

It also applies to gearboxes

[Trex]

how did you go speaking to an automatic specialist yyc34gtt?

i called a really nice bloke who used to do re4's but has now moved onto amg's and bmw's. we had a long chat about different upgrades, line pressure, shift kits etc.

he said that the main thing that causes flaring and slipping in the automatics is the shift solenoids and or a worn valve body as they're aluminium.

I mentioned that my box was still quite tight, only flares once or twice in a 30minute session of hard driving, and i am planning on putting more power into it. What can and should i do? His answer, nothing. if it's still shifting fine now with more boost it sounds like its in good condition, if it does start to slip, buy new solenoids and possibly a new valve body and it should be fine. The thing he didn't like was upgrades such as line pressure, blocking off pistons (he called them something else) and the other 'usual' one off mods people do, as it puts a lot of strain on other components and will not last unless you do them all, and it costs more than doing the right thing, which is replacing worn parts.

[V28VX37]

^ This.

Although you have to remember, the auto is then built for decent power and every bearing and seal has been replaced, and the stall converter is matched to your turbo. If you wanted that sort of power through a manual you would need a decent twin plate clutch which can ruin the drivability, then you still have an old gearbox with worn bearings unless you get the manual rebuilt beforehand.

Totally agree, either option will add up.

The good thing about (re)building a gearbox is that you'll know what's in it, doing a manual conversion you're pretty much relying on the seller's word that it's in workable condition. I got lucky.

Re drivability, I ended up going with an NPC single plate organic that is very easy to drive on the street and has held up well @ 275rwkw.

[YYC34GTT]

how did you go speaking to an automatic specialist yyc34gtt?

i called a really nice bloke who used to do re4's but has now moved onto amg's and bmw's. we had a long chat about different upgrades, line pressure, shift kits etc.

he said that the main thing that causes flaring and slipping in the automatics is the shift solenoids and or a worn valve body as they're aluminium.

I mentioned that my box was still quite tight, only flares once or twice in a 30minute session of hard driving, and i am planning on putting more power into it. What can and should i do? His answer, nothing. if it's still shifting fine now with more boost it sounds like its in good condition, if it does start to slip, buy new solenoids and possibly a new valve body and it should be fine. The thing he didn't like was upgrades such as line pressure, blocking off pistons (he called them something else) and the other 'usual' one off mods people do, as it puts a lot of strain on other components and will not last unless you do them all, and it costs more than doing the right thing, which is replacing worn parts.

I have not yet spoken to any automactic specialist here in Calgary Canada, as there is not many that knows how to work on a skyline except 1 places but they sucks and they go only for money...

So far the Solenoid A and Lock UP solenoid needs to be replace on my car as they are done, I have contacted MV Auto and got a quote for the Solenoid A and B and Lock up. also the shift kit... I am in no rush at the moment as its winter here now and the car is parked...

do you mind asking your friend again for the exact parts for upgrading or replacing aside than the valve body and the solenoid? maybe the parts number for them? and Ill do more research on them and make a decision base on that....

thanks a bunch

[Trex]

What gearbox do you have? The re4r01a was used in HEAPS of other cars 4x4's etc. I'd email a few places so you have it all in writing so you can look back on it.

[turboedsloth]

Keas do a billet band servo aswell as a Kevlar lined band. basic upgrades include fitting extra clutches where possible, shift kit (transgo or superior), new solenoids and modifying the boost valve to up the line pressure a tiny bit. They are a good box and some parts can be interchanged from the RE4R03A range to add in strength

[Ben C34]

R34 uses re4r01b

[Kinkstaah]

I wish for the life of me to know what is IN the RE401B.

It's not the RE401A, because that is the N/A box (so I am told), which I have also been told is "wildly weaker looking" than the GTT box.

I had a N/A box that had been built by MV, then got a new GTT box which I suppled, apparently very different.

It's also not the RE403A, cause that's different again. RE403A vs RE401B = ???????.

[scotty nm35]

I wish for the life of me to know what is IN the RE401B.

Gears and stuff, with magical red liquid.

[turboedsloth]

The 3's are a lot bigger internally, use a different valvebody and solenoid assemblies, clutches are slightly different with width/tooth count. Aswell as the wiring harnesses being different