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I believe the hunt for an engine may be over. I don't have it in my possession yet but will update when I do. It's a short block, meant to be in decent condition. At the very least will be a good block and crank hopefully.

A massive thank you goes out to Dan @No Crust Racing who put the feelers out on his FB page and located a few engines I could have bought. One of those still may eventuate if the current option doesn't work out.

Thanks to @GTSBoyand @Dose Pipe Sutututu for answering PM's with my dumb questions and just generally being helpful. Thanks to all that have commented with helpful suggestions. Thanks guys👍

Anyway as promised, pics of torn down old engine.

Mains

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  • Like 4
Just now, GTSBoy said:

Aw. C'mon. A bit of JB Weld would probably have that back together.

Don't the G D R fellas use JB Weld to repair their cracked blocks? Lol

 

Also with the insatiable demand for RBs (thanks to the muricannnns) there would be a future where sleeving these blown blocks and repairing them is the norm. If you have space, maybe keep it? 

  • Like 1

Rod bearings, I think the order is mixed up. The worse one showing a line of copper is no.2

Pistons look good, all ring lands intact and probably would of done another 30 track days, maybe 😂

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  • Like 1
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I'm starting to order some bits and pieces that will be required.

Is there any difference between NEO and Non NEO head gaskets? They have different part numbers. I can get the NEO one for $20 less and figure why pay extra if I don't have to but don't want to have some silly problem later on if there is in fact a difference that matters.

NEO 11044-5L700

Non 11044-75T02

Yes I will be staying with OEM HG as I've never had an issue, won't be increasing power level and the block and head surface finish isn't as critical.

Nothing wrong with OEM at modest power levels so long as you keep the head clamped down with good studs. 

I ran Hylomar spray on the CA one also as it was advised, not sure if it's a good thing or not but I had no issues and had lightly resurfaced the block myself (head was decked). 

Would neo have different oil feed line in the gasket for the intake variable timing actuator? 

One can make an educated guess and say both are the same, because when you go to order a Tomei or Nitto RB25DET NEO head gasket, it's the same for the non-NEO motor.

NEO head gasket has higher revision number and is cheaper, sounds like a winner to me.

That was my line of thinking. Neo it is, I will be re using the arp headstuds I already have.

Next stupid question, I've ordered new valves 4 new valves but am struggling with the valve guides. Are the in/exh guides the same or different? I see listings for kelford guides and same specs for in/ex but not sure if it's an error in listing.

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Any one know of a supplier where I can purchase 2 ex and 2 in guides?

I'd talk to your local preferred head builder, unless you are planning to do the work yourself? They will have appropriate guides and know what fits. 

From what I can see in/ex is same both sides at 5.95mm ID

 

  • Like 1

Thanks Dan, head builder didn't have something for RB25. I think the in and ex are same ID and OD but different length. I came across an old SAU post where it was discussed that CA18 guides are similar and can be used but may need to be shortened. Nengun lists the OEM valve guides as same for CA, RB20, RB25, vq25, vq35, VR38 to name a few. Part numbers 13212-58S60, 13213-58S60

I've found a couple of aftermarket listings at a parts shop very local to me who sell them individually.

I'm just going to get the head disassembled and get the old valves, guides as samples and go to the shop and compare. Probably safest bet as so many listings have incorrect info. There are OEM Nissan ones available but are pricey after shipping and who knows how long they'll take to turn up. 

25 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Thanks Dan, head builder didn't have something for RB25. I think the in and ex are same ID and OD but different length. I came across an old SAU post where it was discussed that CA18 guides are similar and can be used but may need to be shortened. Nengun lists the OEM valve guides as same for CA, RB20, RB25, vq25, vq35, VR38 to name a few. Part numbers 13212-58S60, 13213-58S60

I've found a couple of aftermarket listings at a parts shop very local to me who sell them individually.

I'm just going to get the head disassembled and get the old valves, guides as samples and go to the shop and compare. Probably safest bet as so many listings have incorrect info. There are OEM Nissan ones available but are pricey after shipping and who knows how long they'll take to turn up. 

Sending to the builder is the go, they can probably source everything you are doing cheaper than you can, and they will be able to return/exchange if anything is not right for some reason

  • Like 1
On 12/10/2023 at 7:33 AM, Duncan said:

Sending to the builder is the go, they can probably source everything you are doing cheaper than you can, and they will be able to return/exchange if anything is not right for some reason

Will talk to the builder again, see if he agrees to take it on. 

Next build I will be sending the head in to be done for me, I would have spent easy 8-10hrs lapping valves in to set the lash and messing about with valve stem seals (was learning though) and I think most places will do new stem seals, guides, deck it, and set your lash for like $800 or so.

My issue was he was not available for 3-4wks.

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