Bills 33 Gtst Streeter/track Car

[Duncan]

Yes exactly, they have access to the right tools, machines and parts to do it quicker and cheaper. Also cnc valves make for very high accuracy compared to doing it by hand if you want to go that way.

I always get a professional to do my head jobs

[GTSBoy]

16 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I always get a professional to do my head jobs

** boom tish **

[admS15]

I hope the professional is a she, lol.

I won't be doing any of the work, just trying to gather the parts to make it easier for the builder so he can actually accept the job. As the head was serviced not long ago, all I want is the bent valves and guides replaced and the damaged bit welded up and machined flat. Obviously not much work or $ in it for him. Probably around the same cost of a decent headjob at the fine establishment down the street 😂

[No Crust Racing]

No doubt a nice 3 angle valve job with a proper machine is better. The process I used was advised to me by an engine builder who has worked with Toyota factory racing teams in the US, literally chats with CEO and showed me a photo of him with the Stig - dude is very knowledgeable and well connected. 

Was told that If you cannot get a shop to do it, this way will be more than good enough for the type of engine you are building etc. When I spoke to the shop who could not get me in he told me lapping them in this way to set lash spot on was overkill for a street engine but he admired the effort. I wanted to learn and I have

Already thing about what to build next lol 

[admS15]

Gentleman, 

 

I give you 

 

 

Vanilla RB25DET short, complete with 10 years worth of barn dust. Barn find. It's a solid base to work with. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Yeah the RBs!

Nitto oil pump it with a nice big fk off sump with baffles, followed by a big catch can that returns back to the sump.

[No Crust Racing]

My loins are suitably moistened. 

[Komdotkom]

It took me ages to get all that dust on there, don't wash it off!

[admS15]

On 30/10/2023 at 8:26 AM, Komdotkom said:

It took me ages to get all that dust on there, don't wash it off!

Oops, too late.

[admS15]

A very special thanks to @Komdotkom for virtually donating the block to my cause. You're a living legend. SAU delivers once again although this was arranged on another forum. The great @fatz also inadvertently had a hand in it. Still SAU peeps.

Fatz put up a couple of pics of saggy door seals in his thread about his 33 with the caption 'my 33 showing it's age'. I put up a pic in response with my exploded RB saying 'my 33 showing it's age'. Komdotkom then came along saying, hey I've got a good short block here and the rest is history. 

So thank you very much to you fine gentleman for helping a brother out and saving me from having to deal with flatbrimner drifters on marketplace who think they're selling gold plated, diamond encrusted RB's. You guys have restored some faith in humanity for me. 

Thanks again to Dan  @No Crust Racing for his efforts and offers of help. It is very much appreciated. Feeling the SAU love.

[admS15]

So I couldn't contain my excitement after picking up the block yesterday and got to stripping it down. 

Started by removing the sump and girdle to have a look at the mains. There was some wear that was clearly evident on the shells, not major but definitely requiring replacement.

 

[admS15]

Next up, for removal was the rods but before I get to that, does anyone have an explanation for this orange/brown discolouration on the casting on one part of the crank. I wasn't too alarmed as I have seen it before on video of a engine builder putting together an RB. I can't remember what he said about it, possibly something to do with the casting process or factory heat treatment. Does anyone know anything about it? @GTSBoy

[Duncan]

Just surface rust....chuck it in an oily environment spinning at 7,500rpm and it will stop

[admS15]

So the rods came out, all the pistons look good. Ring lands intact, no visible cracks anywhere. Bores are excellent and cross hatching still evident.

The rods themselves appear fine. 5 of the bearing shells where in reasonable condition. No. 6 however did have a thin line in the centre where copper was exposed. 

 

That rod journal has some witness marks, I'm hoping they'll be able to be polished out. All other journals look good.

 

Will have to get some professional advice and then go from there.

[admS15]

On 30/10/2023 at 10:27 AM, Duncan said:

Just surface rust....chuck it in an oily environment spinning at 7,500rpm and it will stop

Due to past experience, that environment will be reduced to 7200rpm. Doesn't look like rust, I may be wrong. 

[GTSBoy]

It's definitely an iron oxide of some sort. Happens when it is cast.

[admS15]

So the plan is going to be an OEM+ budget freshen up trying to abide by the KISS method. Not sure at this stage wether it will be DIY or done properly at a shop. At a minimum there will be new OEM rings, ACL bearings, hone, crank shaft treatment, most probably arp rod bolts and appropriate resizing to rods. OEM head gasket, arp head studs. I'm thinking about crank collar, pump gears and head drain. Will have to go have a chat with engine builder, then decide appropriate action.

I doubt much will be done before the end of the year, I've ordered 4 new OEM valves from amayama, delivery date is late Dec but only 3 are in stock so there will probably be a further hold up. 

[No Crust Racing]

I shouldn't be encouraged by this and wanting to build another engine but here we are...

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 30/10/2023 at 12:52 PM, admS15 said:

So the plan is going to be an OEM+ budget freshen up trying to abide by the KISS method. Not sure at this stage wether it will be DIY or done properly at a shop. At a minimum there will be new OEM rings, ACL bearings, hone, crank shaft treatment, most probably arp rod bolts and appropriate resizing to rods. OEM head gasket, arp head studs. I'm thinking about crank collar, pump gears and head drain. Will have to go have a chat with engine builder, then decide appropriate action.

I doubt much will be done before the end of the year, I've ordered 4 new OEM valves from amayama, delivery date is late Dec but only 3 are in stock so there will probably be a further hold up. 

start ordering the gaskets, bearings, ARP parts

 

[admS15]

On 01/11/2023 at 10:27 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

start ordering the gaskets, bearings, ARP parts

 

I'm trying to work out exactly what I need so everything is ordered together.

I've come across a problem with arp rod bolts for non neo RB25. No one actually lists them specifically for them. Most say RB26 and NEO 25 but not vanilla. I rang a supplier and they said they won't fit and that SR20 rod bolts are the same as 25 and I should use those and buy 2 packets. I've read elsewhere that the sr ones work but are a couple mm shorter and the nut doesn't fully cover the threads. 

Anyone have a definite arp part number to use for rb25. Arp only lists RB26.