Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Harro,

(please note, this is not a sponsored review and I do not have any affiliation with MCA)

So I did a quick search on SAU but there really isn't any proper discussion and/or review with MCA coilovers or specifically X-Series coilovers. Without being able to locate any reviews on the X-Series coilovers, I took the plunge and went straight into them and purchased the X-Race coilovers.

MCA says the X-Series coilovers are valved more aggressively than the MCA Blues which are destined more so for the everyday street weekend warrior, stanced up hard parked vehicles that generally want comfort and adjustability. Neither of the previous is what my R33 GTS-t is destined for, it's a track slart and a track slart it will remain.

Best time my car has ever achieved at Wakefield Park by my friend has been 1m12.7s for myself 1m13.5s - this is the benchmark!

post-22311-0-36889500-1446510588_thumb.jpg

So taking the product advertisement (as above).. I went on and purchased a set of MCA X-Race in 10kg front and 7kg rear springs, knowing that any softer for the track would result in undesired body roll, weight shift, etc.

post-22311-0-76697600-1446510845_thumb.jpg

I know this goes against all the information with other suspension gurus but I've tried those setups and cannot get the optimum handling performance I wanted (Whiteline 24mm ARBs, Bilstein Shocks, Lower Springs, Adjustable castor rods, Adjustable rear camber, HICAS eliminator). At Wakefield, the car would roll too much, the front would dip too much on hard braking and ultimately flicked the car around like a rag doll. Coming out of corners, the car would shift all of it's weight to one side (and front when braking heavily) which ended up sideways. I knew I needed stiffer spring rates to combat this.

So, the coilovers came and I installed them the same weekend they were delivered, so far so good.. very good build quality (however the brackets to hold brake lines looked to be universal and made to fit these coilovers, not a big deal - however if you look at BC ones they look nicer but this has nothing to do with the performance of the coilovers). They also appeared to be preadjusted in terms of height and also damper. I just installed them as is which resulted in the car looking a little wonky, the rear was heaps higher than the front but that could have been caused by the new harden subframe bushes I put in which sit a little different to the OEM product. I dropped the rear by 15mm which resulted in a more optimum height.

post-22311-0-92543100-1446511053_thumb.jpg

At the same time, I purchased the extenders, shorten them and let them poke through the parcel tray for ease of adjustment. Nearly looks cool LOL

post-22311-0-78411500-1446511092_thumb.jpg

Moment of truth......

Comfort: With dampers set to 4 Front and 6 Rear, the bumps and oscillations are absorbed very well. No bouncy feeling and actually very streetable. I would dare say the comfort is nearly the same as my previously Bilstein setup, of course when you hit a pothole or reflector on the road it will be more harsh than the Bilstein setup but I try to avoid hitting those things in general.

Comparison: I will compare these to BC BR in the standard 8kg/6kg flavour (unknown damper settings) the MCA X-Series in 10kg/7kg actually is more comfortable on the street.. even I was surprised, I was ready to smash my spine to bits on the street but I am also amazed and pleased with the shock's ability to articulate different bumps and dips in the road like the Bilstein shock did.

Street Handling: Not much has changed really, but then again at street speeds I can't really tell the difference as I run full semi-slicks on a daily basis (Nitto NT01) and also I'm not going fast enough to really benefit from the the coilovers.

Track Handling: TBA - have not gone yet, but will update this thread once I hit up Wakefield Park again.. might do a Speed off the Streets session before EOY.

More to come!!

  • Like 12

Properly dampened, you can run higher spring rates, which MCA seem to do.

Not X-series, but blues (or whichever is the cheapest one) in my mate's Evo7 (10kg springs from memory) rode almost stock-like comfort wise.

whats a parcel shelf still doing in a track car :P

a track car that is road registered because I don't have a tow car and space for a trailer where I live now :(

Johnny I'll be surprised if you aren't impressed with your purchase. The design engineering behind these shocks is punching well above the price point. I'm running MCA Red series with pretty good results. Track only. Setup/spec can vary but I'm thinking your rear spring rates are "up there".

Strongly suggest a call to MCA for ideas/recommendations on what's required to get the best out of your shocks. I have found their after sales service first class.

Keep us updated with your progress, but include more car detail. Wheel/tyre size and spec plus alignment. Bit of in-car when you go to Wakefield will tell heaps about how things are going.

  • Like 2

Quick run down of the car:

Front

  • Hardrace Front Castor Rods,
  • Whiteline Steering rack bushes
  • 24mm Whiteline ARB set at 2nd softest

Rear

  • Hardrace Rear Camber arms set at -1.5 degrees
  • Hardrace harden subframe bushes
  • 24mm Whiteline ARB set at stiffest
  • eBay Special HICAS Eliminator kit

Alignment

  • Front Toe: 1.5mm toe out each side, total 3mm
  • Front Camber: -2 degrees ish (will be more now because lowered car after alignment and no adjustment)
  • Front Castor: 8.5 degrees
  • Rear Toe: 1mm toe in each side, total 2mm
  • Rear Camber: -1.5 degrees

Wheels/Tyres/Brakes:

  • R33 GT-R 17x9 +30
  • Nitto NT01 255/40/17 all round
  • Project Mu HC800+ all round on stock calipers, stock rotors

We are running a set of the "basic spec" MCA Blue in an Evo.

Street running was remarkably better ride control. On the track it was also better controlled and the car was faster.

If you spec-up, you should get incrementally better results.

Quick run down of the car:

Front

  • Hardrace Front Castor Rods,
  • Whiteline Steering rack bushes
  • 24mm Whiteline ARB set at 2nd softest
Rear
  • Hardrace Rear Camber arms set at -1.5 degrees
  • Hardrace harden subframe bushes
  • 24mm Whiteline ARB set at stiffest
  • eBay Special HICAS Eliminator kit
Alignment
  • Front Toe: 1.5mm toe out each side, total 3mm
  • Front Camber: -2 degrees ish (will be more now because lowered car after alignment and no adjustment)
  • Front Castor: 8.5 degrees
  • Rear Toe: 1mm toe in each side, total 2mm
  • Rear Camber: -1.5 degrees
Wheels/Tyres/Brakes:
  • R33 GT-R 17x9 +30
  • Nitto NT01 255/40/17 all round
  • Project Mu HC800+ all round on stock calipers, stock rotors

Johnny it looks like you've got the right sort of combinations to make a good thing. Couple of questions and suggestions:

What ride height are you running? Long time ago Sydneykid posted up suggested ride height range that works ok with R chassis cars. It doesn't take too much of a drop from stock in the rear to start inducing bump steer and nasty taily tendencies because as the suspension compresses the rear tyres toe out.

Rear camber will only increase as the suspension compresses. Gives less contact patch and grip. Maybe look to stand the tyre up more square, target 0.5 - 0.75 neg.

Front camber if you're track only could be increased. Tyres flogging out on the outside edge (if that's happening for you?) might be a telltale to give it more.

I actually have the car a little lower than what SK recommends, purely for aesthetic reasons - however the control arms aren't pointing skywards and actually are parallel to the ground.

In terms of rear camber, even at -1.5degree I am getting outter edge wear and tear on the track. The rear tyres are more thrashed on the outer edges rather than the inner as most may think.

I am considering even going to -2 degrees

I don't have any issues with traction though, putting over 500nm & 320+ kW to the rears on the 255 NT01 tyres

Went for a drive in a forry with mca golds which is setup for rally. Thing was amazing! Soaked up speed humps and table tops like it was a flat road. Had a little bit of a top heavy feeling as you get with any wagon, but still felt very flat through the corners.

Had no idea suspension could be so extremely versatile.

I have mca blues and they a great job.

Tossing up mca blues or the x-c's, it's a daily but I want to get into some minor track work as well.

Josh recommended 8/3.5 wether I go for the blues or xc's but the rear sounds a bit soft? What do you guys think? (For a r32 gtst).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...