Rd28 Vs N1 Block Whichever Is Better For A Build?

[Ben C34]

lol, just the 1? so many split blocks!!

If you chucked that type of money at an engine you would be trying to make it hang together wouldn't you?

Not that op has specified power goals etc. As Darren said you are in 7 sec Territory to worry about it.

[[200]]

Besides the point, given it was probably a $50 block to start off with. The issue is that rare that it shouldn't even be a consideration for choosing between an rb30 compared to the rd28.

OP, there is a guy building up an rd28 block on these forums with a white r33 gts-t. Might be worth digging around and PM'ing him about the costs of machining the block.

[Ben C34]

Besides the point, given it was probably a $50 block to start off with. The issue is that rare that it shouldn't even be a consideration for choosing between an rb30 compared to the rd28.

OP, there is a guy building up an rd28 block on these forums with a white r33 gts-t. Might be worth digging around and PM'ing him about the costs of machining the block.

The 50 dollar block is hardly the concerns though is it? More money is spent on oil.

[33GTRV]

Tune tune tune. If your chasing bulk area under the curve your going to encounter issues. Its got alot to do with cam timing, ign timing and cylinder pressure when you are.

[WantGTR]

dont be a pussy. pull the hose off the wastegate.

[GTRPSI]

Most common split in R30's is around the drivers side engine mount and down the center, bang smack between cyl 3 and 4 where the oil passages run and therefor the weakest part of the block, dont forget the front 4WD diff is there adding twist to that area.

Lots of RB30's also splitting the bores and having hairline cracks from the head studs to the bores too once pushed over 600Kw+ at all 4, much of that is in the tune too, there is only so much they can take reliably.

Grout filling is not so much for block strength but does help somewhat, more so to support the cylinder bores from flexing.

[jet_r31]

Lol 200..i really take photos of split blocks when i see them..its exciting stuff.

Apart from that if you name names with big workshops it starts a shitfight,that im not getting involved with..

Its a fact..rb30s split bores..always have..always will.my eyes have seen them

Some have more luck than others

Cheers

Darren

[jet_r31]

But i think your missing the point still..

Rb30s are good enough for 99 percent of us..

Rds are a deal only needed when you are pushing the envelope..

[jet_r31]

Out of interest to,the other day when i was talking to a guy up the pointy end of the rb field.
He was saying with manuals (2wd/slicks)they soon learned not to declutch the car and rev it and re clutch it... if it bogged in the 60ft as it cracked the blocks...

Edited November 22, 2015 by jet_r31

[dermy]

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/448268-275-Radial-R33-Drag-Build

Rd28 build

[infamous_t]

Besides the point, given it was probably a $50 block to start off with. The issue is that rare that it shouldn't even be a consideration for choosing between an rb30 compared to the rd28.

OP, there is a guy building up an rd28 block on these forums with a white r33 gts-t. Might be worth digging around and PM'ing him about the costs of machining the block.

Not in Australia or NZ etc, but determinately in Europe where shipping a rb30 block is prohibitively expensive.

Topspeed in the Ukraine had an RD28 based RB26/30 combo in their 7 second R32 GTR, well at least until they put a VR38 in there LOL

[niZmO_Man]

Jam wastegate shut, set lap records.