Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo: High-flow Or Upgrade


esir
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas

I read that the M35's turbos usually cook around the 100k km mark, regardless of the fact ill accept it to be true, however is the best cure/prevention to this problem to either:

1. High-flow the stock turbo or

2. Upgrade the turbo altogether, whatever fits im not into it that much

And in this case the car already has a custom dump pipe, thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty simply unless you plan to spend big bucks, just go high flow

+1, a lot more mucking around with changing turbos, including modifying your dump/exhaust. Also, more lag, because you can't help yourself going bigger when changing turbos.

Highflow + low cell cat + more boost + good tune = fun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just saying....with a couple of simple search's there is so much info on this.

*if not after more HP. Just get a standard rebuild(make sure its from a turbo builder that does not have a problem with idle oil pressure....so no ling long cheapys)...drill out the banjo's in the sump and block to 2mm and replace the standard oil line to the turbo with a filtered one from motorsport connections(make sure its the line that suits your core).

*if after more HP use the search engine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I read boring out the oil line to the turbo from 1mm to 3mm is a great countermeasure too, apparently you cant have too much oil to a turbo?

Oh, yes you can...

just saying....with a couple of simple search's there is so much info on this.

*if not after more HP. Just get a standard rebuild(make sure its from a turbo builder that does not have a problem with idle oil pressure....so no ling long cheapys)...drill out the banjo's in the sump and block to 2mm and replace the standard oil line to the turbo with a filtered one from motorsport connections(make sure its the line that suits your core).

*if after more HP use the search engine

After burning many thousands on highflow hack jobs over the years I can confirm this. Unfortunately, internally not all turbo's are the same. Some are designed to fail.

Definitely use a braided line with a filter preferably, as that way they can't pull out the oil contamination card.

No need to change the stock turbo until it lets go, unless you really want to. I have seen the stock turbo go for 250+ thousand in a well serviced car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine ran on the stock turbo with Scotty intake, but stock dump, for more than 5 years without any turbo issues...

Kept it on a diet of regularly changed full synthetic 10/40 and good quality filters. Also dumped the K&N for a paper based airfilter to keep the air flow sensor honest...

Always had the "new turbo" fund ready just in case, but in the end was able to use that addition spend on my 370GT sedan rather than buying the 350GT I had budget for... :yes:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...