Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

so now im trying to make my dream car come true

and i want something super fast lets say 400-450 HP this is all on RB25DET

so up until now i have these parts not yet installed

1- Greedy style manifold + 80mm Throtel body + Fuel Rail

2- Aftermarket Turbo 50 in size

3- NGK Iridium BCPR6

4- RB25DET Gear Box

5- r32 diff + Cusco adjustable Toe control rods +aftermarket full adj suspension

6- Blue pin OEM ECU (r33)

7- 3" Intercooler + HKS SSQV Blowoff

8- Tomi Fuel regulaitor + Oil Catch can + Comtic Headgasket 1.3 - 87mm Bor + AEM 320L PH Fuel pump + Oil dumper

9 - Apexi SFAC 2 + innovate Wideband + Turbo boost controler digital

so what i would like to know what am i missing, what are the things that i purched wrong and it will not have any effect

ah and 1 more thing does the nismo gauge cluster spedo 300 fits the cefiro a 31 ???

i appreciate all the help before i blow my Engine ^_^

Thanks again

Loy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463148-rb25det-best-performance/
Share on other sites

If money is tight sell the following to buy things you really need:

Greddy style manifold, 80mm throttle body, fuel rail, unknown turbo, OEM ecu, Tomei fuel regulator and all of 9

What you need as a minimum:

Link G4 computer + mac valve for boost control OR PFC + Z32 AFM and boost controller

Decent turbo with (if necessary) wastegate mounted on stock manifold.

Assuming you are running on petrol some 550 side mount injectors

3in turbo back exhaust

Probably a set of new OEM or Splitfire coils.

Good intercooler (you don't say what kind you have)

Good tune

  • Like 1

NOS... two of the big ones.

But seriously, your tune must be good. Try an aftermarket ECU

Thanks Mate im trying as hard as i can to get good numbers

You are missing.

Decent turbo

Proper engine management.

I guess so

You need a decent throttel body...

But yeah, Turbo, ECU, Exhaust.

Maybe E85 if it's available?

It's hard to find one here :(

If money is tight sell the following to buy things you really need:

Greddy style manifold, 80mm throttle body, fuel rail, unknown turbo, OEM ecu, Tomei fuel regulator and all of 9

What you need as a minimum:

Link G4 computer + mac valve for boost control OR PFC + Z32 AFM and boost controller

Link G4 is really costly + no good tuners around

Decent turbo with (if necessary) wastegate mounted on stock manifold.

​any brand recommendation ?

Assuming you are running on petrol some 550 side mount injectors

Yep Nismo 555cc

3in turbo back exhaust

can i stick with 2.5" (to keep it quit as possible)

Probably a set of new OEM or Splitfire coils.

I'm trying to get those

Good intercooler (you don't say what kind you have)

aw sorry the intercooler is Apexi

Good tune

Hard to find one around

  • Like 1

Got more details on the Turbo 50?

I hope this will help

  • Intake Inlet/ Outlet: 4.000"/ 2.625"
  • Compressor:
  • Trim: 60
  • A/R: .70
  • Inducer: 60.30
  • Exducer: 78.00

    Turbine:

  • Trim: 64
  • A/R: .50
  • Inducer: 67.00
  • Exducer: 58.80
  • 2 weeks later...

ok guys after a few days of searching i couldn't come up with a clear answer for this

i wanted to upgrade my engine injectors so i found some good names

like 550cc nismo - 750 denso - 650 bosh aside for that

what is the right one to chose for my application i mean to have a sweet 400+ without risking

oh and i've changed my ECU and i bought Link G4+ (GTRLink) ....

I have a S2 RB25DET. It makes +-340hp on 0.9bar and just over 400hp on 1.2-1.3 bar boost. Supporting mods are the following:

Garrett GT3071R 0.82AR mounted on stock manifold with external Tial 38mm wastegate

76mm exhaust with 2 Magnaflow silencers

600 x 300 x 76 Autobahn 88 intercooler

1000cc DW sidefeed fuel injectors fed by a Walbro fuel pump, stock FPR

Stock intake manifold with front-facing standard throttle body

Greddy Type RZ blow-off valve

Mishimoto R33 radiator, Nismo thermostat and SPAL electric fan

Rear head oil drain, winged and baffled sump

Link G4 Xtreme management

AEM water & methanol injection

I forgot to add that it makes full boost by 3100rpm in 4th and 5th, about 3800rpm in 1st gear.

Edited by Skylinefreak1

I have a S2 RB25DET. It makes +-340hp on 0.9bar and just over 400hp on 1.2-1.3 bar boost. Supporting mods are the following:

Garrett GT3071R 0.82AR mounted on stock manifold with external Tial 38mm wastegate

76mm exhaust with 2 Magnaflow silencers

600 x 300 x 76 Autobahn 88 intercooler

1000cc DW sidefeed fuel injectors fed by a Walbro fuel pump, stock FPR

Stock intake manifold with front-facing standard throttle body

Greddy Type RZ blow-off valve

Mishimoto R33 radiator, Nismo thermostat and SPAL electric fan

Rear head oil drain, winged and baffled sump

Link G4 Xtreme management

AEM water & methanol injection

I forgot to add that it makes full boost by 3100rpm in 4th and 5th, about 3800rpm in 1st gear.

Thats a cool setup but again 1000cc ....

i just bought the 550cc from nismo and i will try to hit this number and i hope i can

for the turbo money is tight to buy one of those Garrett GT3071R monsters any other brands recommendations ?

i will not replace the intake manifold hmmm lets see what will happen

but anyway thanks mate

Get 800cc power enterprise dropin injectors.

Adaptronic plug in Ecu would make tuning alot easier. It supports 3 bar map sensor so no AFM

ATR43SAT Ceramic Ball bearing Rb Bolton turbo. That makes 20psi by 3550RPM 4th, maxed at 424rwhp internally gated on P98 fuel.

Ok, this is the important bit, or you won't make my power:

4 inches induction pipe

PWR 600x300x81mm cooler

3.5 inches turbo back exhaust.

a Good tune

Get 800cc power enterprise dropin injectors.

Adaptronic plug in Ecu would make tuning alot easier. It supports 3 bar map sensor so no AFM

ATR43SAT Ceramic Ball bearing Rb Bolton turbo. That makes 20psi by 3550RPM 4th, maxed at 424rwhp internally gated on P98 fuel.

Ok, this is the important bit, or you won't make my power:

4 inches induction pipe

PWR 600x300x81mm cooler

3.5 inches turbo back exhaust.

a Good tune

Price on atr43sat cbb if u don't mind telling?

Power Enterprise injectors are absolute junk Tao!

At that rate you might as well get Five O junk too lol.

Better off with Nismo 740cc injectors and be naughty and set the base pressure at 3.5 bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...