Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And think about your driving......is a GTR and the extra 2 wheels driving really necessary?

I admit they are attractive machines but if you don't track and except for a few mountain passes of 10-20Km all your driving is on wide open roads, you don't need 4wd for 99% of your driving. If its track/race, status or resale then a GTR is the go. If its not then no use paying for what you don't need, a Gtst/GTT is fine, on a typical highway you will not see the difference behind the wheel. Remember Australia is wide and flat with big distance and lots of straight roads.

And think about your driving......is a GTR and the extra 2 wheels driving really necessary?

I admit they are attractive machines but if you don't track and except for a few mountain passes of 10-20Km all your driving is on wide open roads, you don't need 4wd for 99% of your driving. If its track/race, status or resale then a GTR is the go. If its not then no use paying for what you don't need, a Gtst/GTT is fine, on a typical highway you will not see the difference behind the wheel. Remember Australia is wide and flat with big distance and lots of straight roads.

I went from a 32 GTST to a GTR -

Admittedly it's a pretty unsuitable system for normal road use as it requires traction loss before it engages but it nevertheless does come in handy in wet/slippery conditions. Amazing how many times I've looked down while driving in a straight line in the wet and notice the 4wd gauge moving.

But yes 4wd, rb26/ twin turbos etc do add complication.

I do not track, but have a heap of grunt and would hate to have my GTR as RWD, I could not have half the fun as I do with AWD.

Even went further with it, put in a Quaif front diff and a couple of extra plates in the trannie ,it had a 2-way back diff. It is great on all surfaces and puts it down real good.

Give it some throttle , no spinning and wobbling all over the place, feels great around the twisties, it just gets down to business and nothing is wasted, luvit :)

  • Like 1

^^^ yeah now tell all how much it cost........lol. Not to mention the heartache from trials and tribulations etc Prob owes you a private island in the Pacific complete with Hula girls by now!!! :rofl2:

Its all to do with priorities........

  • Like 1

^^^ yeah now tell all how much it cost........lol. Not to mention the heartache from trials and tribulations etc Prob owes you a private island in the Pacific complete with Hula girls by now!!! :rofl2:

Its all to do with priorities........

But that's not talking about buying a Skyline, it was about RWD Vs AWD, I am sure there are plenty of blokes that think exactly the opposite to me and you do not have to do what I did to my driveline they are pretty good without all of that crap and expense .

You have to get your priorities worked out and just buy a GTR if your pocket will allow, but whatever you buy , do your homework , I wish I had my advice, 20 X 20 hindsight is great, LOL :yes:

  • Like 2

But that's not talking about buying a Skyline, it was about RWD Vs AWD, I am sure there are plenty of blokes that think exactly the opposite to me and you do not have to do what I did to my driveline they are pretty good without all of that crap and expense .

Yes but they're so much better with diffs and transfer case/4wd mods!

Lol

And Even Nissan realized how bad a combo it was and canned it

Nah the marketing team were happy with all the attention and I'm sure the bean counters saw the books and flipped out lol

Yes but they're so much better with diffs and transfer case/4wd mods!

Well I hope so, or I wasted 6 months susing stuff out and having it installed :/

Apart from my shitty suspension and bushes , around twisty stuff there is no problem and feels strong, but when you go hard in a straight line it is shit when the road is uneven and had to check my undies when I got home a few times !

Have some MCA X-Comfort coilovers going in after the school hols and the bushes replaced , so I guess I will find out in a few weeks the difference it makes. But the MCA coilovers look to pretty to hide under the car :)

Just buy a GTR, put a massive turbo on it and thrash the fk out of it daily.

Even if u bought it 20k and had to spend 30k on it you will still have a supercar for less than half the money of a all the hi-tech rubbish that's out now.

There is not one car under 100k that can even come close to the driving experience of a GTR.

Shoot me down, I don't give a shit, but for value for money in regards to performance, driving pleasure and overall experience, you can't get better.

  • Like 2

Just buy a GTR, put a massive turbo on it and thrash the fk out of it daily.

Even if u bought it 20k and had to spend 30k on it you will still have a supercar for less than half the money of a all the hi-tech rubbish that's out now.

There is not one car under 100k that can even come close to the driving experience of a GTR.

Shoot me down, I don't give a shit, but for value for money in regards to performance, driving pleasure and overall experience, you can't get better.

^^^^^^^^^ This

I have had over 25 cars in my life and the GTR is the most fun outside the bedroom , nowadays, including the bedroom , LOL

You can stick your massive Turbos, I will have something more drivable, more torque, more TORQUE!!!!!!!!

^^ Hardly

There is no other way of putting it. GTR's are dinosaurs now. And they show their age. You really do have to love them to put up with them. And you will struggle to find someone that enjoys his car more than me. But you have to be realistic.

Legit the only reason you would buy a 32/33/34 and mod the crap out of it to drive it on the street is because of nostalgia. value for money wise you can get much more these days.

  • Like 2

And think about your driving......is a GTR and the extra 2 wheels driving really necessary?

I admit they are attractive machines but if you don't track and except for a few mountain passes of 10-20Km all your driving is on wide open roads, you don't need 4wd for 99% of your driving. If its track/race, status or resale then a GTR is the go. If its not then no use paying for what you don't need, a Gtst/GTT is fine, on a typical highway you will not see the difference behind the wheel. Remember Australia is wide and flat with big distance and lots of straight roads.

I went from a 32 GTST to a GTR -

Admittedly it's a pretty unsuitable system for normal road use as it requires traction loss before it engages but it nevertheless does come in handy in wet/slippery conditions. Amazing how many times I've looked down while driving in a straight line in the wet and notice the 4wd gauge moving.

But yes 4wd, rb26/ twin turbos etc do add complication.

Just to cover my experience on this as i have also had both a gts-t and a gtr.

the 4wd system in a 32 is actually very well balanced with a couple of mods, and in my opinion, is better than the 33 and 34 system. A new G sensor really wakes it up, i have lost count on how many times the 4wd has helped my car even on the street. Due to how many roundabouts we have it really opens up. Not to mention that you can throw more power at them even in a straight line. My car is effectively factory optioned, with an ECU. Running -7's and E85 it's making just shy of 340kw. And i see the 4WD come on quite often, and my god it does make a difference to the feel of the car. Especially when going up hills.

Now in saying that the way i look at GTS-T vs GTR (remember this is just an opinion)

If i wanted a Dyno queen i would build a GTS-t. Stroked RB30 with a big f**k off single and job done.

If i want a car that drives beautifully on the street, that needs to cover all sorts of bases (hills, twisties, straights etc) i will buy the GTR. Now yes as RBN1 said it does add complication, but realistically at under 400kw the complication doesn't come from the diffs or turbos. It's just the oil issues. If you get on top of those in a 26 you are usually ok (lol jokes i've had sooo many issues)

TL;DR if you want a car with heaps of power, just build a GTS-T. If you want a car you can properly drive, build an R.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...