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Yesterday I got the pressure sensor harness in and then started going through the stock ecu wiring and labelling everything I need to wire up to the new ecu. There wasn't a whole lot that I had to reuse. Ac in/out, powersteer, start position, and a couple of Digital Inputs and Aux outs Ive got running around the car. Was left over with a bunch of unused factory wires.

Went to run some speaker cable through to the doors but found out it's on a connector so that was a no go. Will probably end up tapping onto the stock wire and running to the back for an amp.

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  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, klutched said:

Yesterday I got the pressure sensor harness in and then started going through the stock ecu wiring and labelling everything I need to wire up to the new ecu. There wasn't a whole lot that I had to reuse. Ac in/out, powersteer, start position, and a couple of Digital Inputs and Aux outs Ive got running around the car. Was left over with a bunch of unused factory wires.

Went to run some speaker cable through to the doors but found out it's on a connector so that was a no go. Will probably end up tapping onto the stock wire and running to the back for an amp.

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I ended up drilling a hole in that door connector to pass some new speaker wire through. A large portion of the connector is blank, so it fit in there well and didn’t impact the other terminals/connectors. You don’t need to drill a hole in the female part in the door, as it’s not sealed and allows cable to be fed through.

looking good!

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, Duncan said:

Sorry if I'm missing something...does that mean you have to cut the speaker wires to remove the door?

It’s not ideal but you would need to disconnect terminals from speaker and feed through door as you take them off. I needed to add a cable anyway for my central locking solenoid for the alarm, so I re-purposed the old speaker cable for that and then the new wire was for the speakers

Got the speakers wired up in the doors today. I end up cutting the wire where I could access it and put new speaker wire on to run down to the crossovers and ran them to woofer and tweeter. I used the original speaker wire that went down to woofer to reuse the crimps. 

Mate said he has a spot free to fab my intercooler pipes, dump and other bits and pieces on Monday so I started getting shit out and putting everything together that needs to go down with it. Got the rad in so he can fab the new top pipe to the hypertune hose as well. 

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Got the old girl all prepped to be picked up for fab tomorrow morning. Finished bolting up the speakers and got the door cards back on and cleared out the loose bits and pieces from the interior. 

Popped the cold side pipe back on and refitted catch can. Trimmed some more metal from the passenger guard so it will clear with the new position of the turbo. 

Tried to push it out the front but my yards super muddy with all the rain we've had in Bris the last couple of days. Required a light tow to get her down the side, luckily from another Nissan 🤣 Got her into the garage and ready for the tow truck at 0630 tomorrow. 

It's going in for dump pipe mod, screamer plumbed back with provision to vent or plumb like my first setup and also going to get the muffler moved back closer to the bumper which should make it look a lot better. Cooler pipes modded to suit DBW TB and new turbo, fab new top radiator pipe to mate with the new hypertune manifold hose and then weld up my shifter drop box.

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Got a message mid morning saying it was all done! Tow truck picked it up around lunch time and dropped it home. 

I pulled it all apart and dropped it down to the powdercoaters. Should have it back next week sometime. 

Popped down and grabbed some high temp paint and gave the radiator, TB and adapter a couple of coats. Came up looking sweet. It has a nice look to it. 

Tomorrow I'll pull the dump and screamer off so I can wrap them with exhaust wrap. Then pull turbo and mani off so I can sand the mani back as its got a bit of rust coming through the ceramic coating and looks shit. 

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Edited by klutched
  • Like 6

Did a little bit this afternoon and pulled the dump and turbo off so I could take the mani off to clean it up and give it a few coats of paint. Wire wheeled what I could get to and then got the sand paper out to get the tight spots. Gave it one coat so far, will do another two tomorrow and see if I can fit it in the oven to bake it for an hour along with the adapter and dbw. 

Hoping the exhaust wrap I ordered turns up soon so I can wrap the dump and screamer. Ordered 30M so I'll wrap back as far as I can to help a little with temp next to the box and also the floorpan. 

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  • Like 5

Did some baking today, managed to fit it all in the oven. Turned out pretty good. Hopefully it holds up well to a bit of tool abuse. 

Popped a few pieces on to see what the colours will look like. Pretty happy with how it came up. 

Now to wait for the rest of the stuff to rock up :D

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This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do. 

Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back. 

Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up. 

Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O

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  • 3 weeks later...

Was away on holidays last week and hadn't heard from powder coater, so I gave them a bell and it was all ready. Went and picked it up yesterday and gave it a clean this afternoon and started bolting it up. 

Mate finally got around to ordering my new ECU, hopefully thats here this week and I can start getting that mounted and finish the wiring on it.

Tomorrow I'll try and get the exhaust back in and see what else I can tick off the list

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Finished putting the rest of the dump on today. Itchy and a prick of a job with 5 vbands to line up with the plumb back setup but I got there in the end. 

Couple of other little bits and pieces put on while I was at it. Need to sort all the wiring that has to come to the hot side of the bay so I can finish mounting up the boost control and emap lines. 

Fingers crossed ECU rocks up early this week and I get some time to work on it.

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Finally got some time to work on it yesterday so I got cracking and made a bracket up to mount the ecu. It just fits in there with enough space to plug the harness in. 

Got cracking on the rest of the harness and finished it up to realise I had forgotten a wire to power the DBW relay. So I'll be depinning it and running all spare wires through to another connector so they're easily accessible for future use. 

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Wiring is finally nearing completion! Gotta feed the wideband and boost soli into the cab and pin it up inside then i can start on the incab i/o wiring which just needs to be crimped into a deutsch. 

Tidy up and start putting the interior back together, get a new battery and plumb the surge tank back up then I can fill fluids and start testing all my I/O and can setup between the Link and TCU.

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  • Like 3

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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