Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

It's my first time posting in sau as i recently purchased an NA R34 with an aftermarket turbo.

First of all, can anyone recommend a good tuner (preferred specialised in skyline bnr34) in Melbourne? I would be getting the car retuned after fixing a problem that it currenly has.

Secondly, so the problem it has now is that it can rev upto redline on P mode but when driving the rev caps at around 3000-4000. Up to this point i think that either there might be something wrong with the AFM, or i have to install the aftermarket fuel regulator and fuel rail back into the car as i think it could also be the problem from the fuel pump. However i am no specialist in cars so if anyone of u guys can give me anyhelp that would be greatly appreciated.

The previous owner did told me about this rev-capped problem and gave me the aftermarket fuel regulator and rail, however i am not 100% sure if that is the solution to the problem so i am wondering if the problem can be easily fixed by a professional tuner/mechanic incase if it is something non-trivial.

Also, both the fuel injector and fuel pump are aftermarket and not stock, the AFM i believe is a Z32 AFM.

Cheers

Hi all

It's my first time posting in sau as i recently purchased an NA R34 with an aftermarket turbo.

First of all, can anyone recommend a good tuner (preferred specialised in skyline bnr34) in Melbourne? I would be getting the car retuned after fixing a problem that it currenly has.

Secondly, so the problem it has now is that it can rev upto redline on P mode but when driving the rev caps at around 3000-4000. Up to this point i think that either there might be something wrong with the AFM, or i have to install the aftermarket fuel regulator and fuel rail back into the car as i think it could also be the problem from the fuel pump. However i am no specialist in cars so if anyone of u guys can give me anyhelp that would be greatly appreciated.

The previous owner did told me about this rev-capped problem and gave me the aftermarket fuel regulator and rail, however i am not 100% sure if that is the solution to the problem so i am wondering if the problem can be easily fixed by a professional tuner/mechanic incase if it is something non-trivial.

Also, both the fuel injector and fuel pump are aftermarket and not stock, the AFM i believe is a Z32 AFM.

Cheers

Also that car sounds butchered.. stock RB25DE ECU with a turbo slapped on it.. don't dick about with the fuel reg or mixing and matching shit without an aftermarket ECU or at least a piggy back (as you have an auto)

Sounds like you bought a problem. Which is why the guy sold it.

Prepare to open your wallet.

hmm prehaps not as bad as u thought,I've had my mechanic looked into it and he thinks there's no big problem but it just take time to find this rev-capped problem,which is likely to be either afm or fuel related.

The car has GReddy emanage ultimate ECU since it's an auto as well as many other mods with over 10k receipts, so I am wondering would a professional tuner be able to diagnose the issue better for me?

hmm prehaps not as bad as u thought,I've had my mechanic looked into it and he thinks there's no big problem but it just take time to find this rev-capped problem,which is likely to be either afm or fuel related.

The car has GReddy emanage ultimate ECU since it's an auto as well as many other mods with over 10k receipts, so I am wondering would a professional tuner be able to diagnose the issue better for me?

Yes a tuner would be your best option

Sorry my bad for creating multiple threads.

Also, apparently Chequered Tuning doesn't tune emanages anymore. Is there any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I would suggest getting an Adaptronic e420D and splicing it into your loom to control injection/ignition and letting the OEM ECU control the automatic box.

That "rev cap" as you call it is actually a TP Load cut.. your ECU is going "wtf.. why is there so much air going into the motor, I'm cutting fuel"

Talk to Trent, tell him the bastardised setup you have and someone from SAU recommended using an Adaptronic e420D to make it boogie.

  • Like 1

I would suggest getting an Adaptronic e420D and splicing it into your loom to control injection/ignition and letting the OEM ECU control the automatic box.

That "rev cap" as you call it is actually a TP Load cut.. your ECU is going "wtf.. why is there so much air going into the motor, I'm cutting fuel"

Talk to Trent, tell him the bastardised setup you have and someone from SAU recommended using an Adaptronic e420D to make it boogie.

I tried, unfortunately the guys from Chequered Tuning said Trent wont be able to talk to me over this matter, as apparantly he doesnt get involve with emanage anymore ;/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...