Rb26 Arp Headstud Install On Assembled Motor.

[No Crust Racing]

I've read a number of threads on here regarding this, but there's some info missing.

For safety, I'll be replacing the standard headstuds in my car with ARP studs as I'm planning on adding a bit more boost or going single (currently -9s, e85 and 335rwkw at 22psi). Gasket is stock and has not shown signs of issue.

I've been advised that doing one at a time should be fine and wont unsettle the gasket and I've been reading this regarding install.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-4207.pdf

1) Do I need to go and buy a thread chaser or is blowing out each hole with a compressor enough?

2) Any issue with me following the order as shown on that PDF? The first one being the middle?

3) Do any of the studs protrude into a water jacket and require sealant on an RB26?

4) There's mixed info regarding what torque to use given the standard head gasket has already been crushed and seated. Nissan spec torque or ARP torque?

5) This might seem like a stupid question, but in my last car the studs did not have separate nuts. That install guide says finger tight the studs into the block then finger tight the nut onto the stud then torque from there. Is torque applied to the assembled nut and stud via the nut or via the stud? Last car I did this on the torque was applied via the stud with a 10mm allen key fitting. Same here?

Cheers

[Ben C34]

You don't need to buy a thread chaser. Modify an original bolt you pull out to chase the threads by cutting a slot or two in it.

I would follow the regular tightening procedure.

They don't protrude into the water galleries.

You use the torque setting of the bolt manufacturer, so arp in this case.

The studs should only be finger tight, and preferably backed off so as to not bottom out. The nut applies the tension, the stud just goes in the hole and shouldn't turn when tightening the nut. If the stud was to be bottomed out hard it could / would deform the material around the base of the thread and cause issues with the bore.

[admS15]

And make sure to use the arp specific moly lube

[No Crust Racing]

Cutting slots in an old bolt is a nifty idea, cheers.

Regular tightenting procedure as in tighten to X, then tighten to Y then back off to 0 then tighten again? I thought that was to stretch the stock bolts.

If the nut is what I'm using, what socket size/fitting is it?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

make sure you buy double hex socket set and 3/8" long sockets.. 1/2" won't fit and 1/4" you'll snap them.

(yes I learnt the hard way)... ARP studs comes with a sachet of assembly lube, more than enough for all the studs/nuts.

[No Crust Racing]

I'll see if I can borrow one, no point buying a whole set for one job. 3/8" drive, sure, but not in double hex.

Next door neighbour has all those sorts of rarely used items.

[tridentt150v]

Just buy the one long socket and a 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor.

[mico]

I used 1/4 drive everytime no probs. With the cams in u can't fit any 1/2 inch drive

[89CAL]

I don't know about 1/4" drive. I was sketchy enough about 3/8" drive on mine and from memory GTR headstuds are M12 not M10

The 3/8" drive sockets ones fit fine

[No Crust Racing]

ARP kit arrived.

Still lots of conjecture about using Nissan's process of tighten, tighten, loosen, tighten again vs ARPs 3 equal steps to 105ft lbs.

Also, with the order, given I am removing one and replacing one stud at a time, should I be starting from the middle as per the diagram, or starting from the end, 14 in the digram, and working backwards. though in my head, given the gasket is already crushed and in place,m it shouldn't matter.

[Ben C34]

Nissan's process is for Nissan's bolts.

Arps process is for their studs.

I know which one I would use.

I'd start in the middle

[No Crust Racing]

OK at least I have someone to blame if it goes tits

Will post in Dyno thread in a month or so when I get this done, other shit fitted and back to the tuner.

[Ben C34]

Nissan's process of loosening is so the threads are "burnished" together, removing high spots. No need with the higher quality arp and especially studs. There's way less contact are between the nut and the stud vs a bolt and the block.

[iruvyouskyrine]

ARP method. Start at the center and work out.

[GTSBoy]

Having had them ^ say that, I would be tempted to only do up each ARP stud to the same torque as the original ones are (supposed) to be tightened to, until they are all done. Then I would go around and finish them off.

For (artificially extreme) example....say the Nissan bolts are at 10Nm and the ARP bolts need to be at 200Nm. You wouldn't want all of them at 10Nm and only one or two scattered around wound up to 200! Unevenness is not desired.

[No Crust Racing]

I get you, get them even at stock torque spec, then increase to the ARP torque.

Stock being 103-113Nm, ARP being 142Nm ish.

Any issue causing damage by going tighter than stock? Risk to block/bore/threads/deform gasket?

Edited June 28, 2016 by ActionDan

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

RB not really

SR yes, the S15 I was working on, we stripped a thread, well the entire thread snapped off/out clean from the block as soon as we got to the ARP torque levels. Ended up using a timesert to fix the problem.. Not a fun thing to have happen.