Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, long time lurker, finally decided to make an account coz I need a bit of help.

I was involved in an accident yesterday around the corner from my home. I stopped mid way across the oncoming lane in a right turn T - intersection to let a hesitant elderly pedestrian through and another driver somehow didn't see me from 200m away to brake in time and slammed into my front left. Damage looks pretty bad but I'm hoping it can be repaired. I've only got third party insurance and at this point of time, the police reckon its my fault even though I explained its a 50km/h zone and I had to stop to wave the hesitant pedestrian through.

I'm after someone reliable and honest to work on my car to fix it up. Hopefully someone who won't overcharge on parts and labour since money is tight. I live in the northern suburbs so something close would be good however honesty on pricing is main thing.

Can SAU please recommend someone?

I've attached picture of the damage in case someone on here can give me a rough estimate on pricing, etc.

post-143625-0-08024700-1467239677_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-52415600-1467239796_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-35472400-1467239971_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-22232500-1467240047_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-63079400-1467240198_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-52670600-1467240333_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-84694000-1467240439_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-14628700-1467240534_thumb.jpg

Take it to a random panel shop and get a free quote / list of parts required. It'll cost you some time and a trailer, assuming they do walk in quotes (check first)

Assuming there is no damage to the actual chassis rails:
Straightening the mangled body is a big task and hard to get right, new side fender, headlights, indicators, front bar, lots of plastic bits, bonnet, many hours of labour.

R34 GT, not worth fixing... If you can't afford Full Comp Insurance, then you definately can't afford the repair to make this car right again. Cheapest option is probably going to be to buy a new one and sell off bits from this one as parts.... But at the end of the day, its a GT, so the engine and gearbox aren't worth much...

I think you're going to find you're up 5h!t creek without a paddle (insurance).

Since it's not an insurance job, you won't have a problem finding a workshop to do it for you, but you'll be paying a lot for it.

Really wish I had full comp after reading your reply Odium. I was quoted $3500 as a 22 yo P-Plater so I went with 3rd party :unhappy: .

Assuming you have experience with repairs etc, what is a ballpark figure I could look to pay using 2nd hand parts? Any idea what/who to I could sell the car for parts if I decide to go that way?

Whats a reasonable amount to spend for repairs vs just selling it for parts?

Bloody headache, might just go with full comp, no matter price, next time just so I don't have to worry about chasing a panel shop next time :)

Really wish I had full comp after reading your reply Odium. I was quoted $3500 as a 22 yo P-Plater so I went with 3rd party :unhappy: .

thats a ridiculous amount of money. but with how many skylines are getting stolen it's probably not unreasonable. I certainly dont think its worth it, unless you expect it to be stolen or smashed?

1) get insurance quotes before you purchase a car

2) dont get a cop/thief-bait car until after P's.

Unfortunately thats the way of the world now.

I know your pain mate. My car was written off 4 weeks ago also.

All I know from experience is that your stuffed once the airbags deploy. Min $3000 fix before panel work is quoted. Insurance will write off on spot almost.

Gal Smash repairs in Tullamarine  are good. I went to quote my wreck to be fixed but it worked out more than the cars worth. The guy there was really nice and gave an honest advice.

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks lavin, I've taken apart most of the front and am ordering a nose cut. Will call Harveys for a quote on panel beating and re assemble. How are their prices? Anyone specific to talk to there?

That thing is f**ked.

Anything is fixable, but there ain't no way that's going to be worth it.  It'd be cheaper to go buy a new car.

Why? I can get a nose cut for $750 which has all the parts I need. The rad support is spot welded on and the guard is welded onto the chassis as well. If I can get the panels beaten into shape for $2000, why would it make sense to "just buy a new car"?

IMG_20160715_091549.jpg

If you can get the panels beaten into shape for $2,000.....there's problem A.  A front cut for $750?  From where?  A decent set of headlights alone will set you back almost that much.

If the strut tower isn't moved, I'll be surprised.  If the firewall isn't out of shape, I'll be surprised.  If the front chassis rails aren't bent, I'll be surprised.

I hope for your sake I end up being very surprised, but if I were a betting man, I'd say you won't get away with fixing it for under $10k.

On 22/07/2016 at 9:07 PM, ssin said:

$750 for a Nose Cut.....I agree with Aaron. Your looking around $1500 for a Series 2. I paid under $200 for a front Series 2 Rad Support Section. But that wheel arch looks dodgy. . I got quoted $1500 to fix and refit the front of mine if I supplied the stock.

 

RadS.JPG

  • 1 month later...

I'll be selling this after I remove the parts I require off it to fix my car. It's a 1997 SII 40th Anniversary 12/1997 build date 120,000kms on clock, unregistered, Auto gearbox.

Selling with engine, gearbox, bonnet,entire car won't be cut as I have a rad support panel. Also got spare front bar, front bar lights, fan and other stuff.

PM me if you like/ Won't be available until after they fix my car, maybe 1-2 months

IMG_0731.JPG

IMG_0735.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...