Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. I want to build my skyline into a reliable track/street car. It is not my daily, but I still want it to be as reliable as possible.

At the moment it has a 3" turbo back exhaust, spitfire coil packs, hks coilovers, return flow fmic and a ebc running 10psi and upgraded radiator with a gktech fan.

I run Penrite Racing 10w-40 10 tenths engine oil and change every 5,000km.

I have heard some issues with the rb25 is the oil pump, needs a crank collar. Can this be done without removing the crankshaft from the engine, pretty sure you have to machine it though.

Oil restrictors I have heard from research on here are essential too as well as a head drain kit and rb26 rocker covers.

What else should I look at doing to make it a reliable package. Also is this stuff required if my plan is to go to 250rwkw running a Link G4+ with a Kinguawa low mount turbo?

Thanks guys, please leave details and no sarcasm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465659-building-a-reliable-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

None of that is required. Fit your ecu, bigger injectors and turbo, retune and enjoy. 250rwkw is a walk in the park for an rb25. You'll need a better fuel pump if you don't already have one. Walbro 255 for that sort of power will be fine.




None of that is required. Fit your ecu, bigger injectors and turbo, retune and enjoy. 250rwkw is a walk in the park for an rb25. You'll need a better fuel pump if you don't already have one. Walbro 255 for that sort of power will be fine.

A mate of mine blew his engine from a failed oil pump at the track because he was on the limiter for a couple seconds. His was a neo seems like its a common issue, of course can keep it off the limiter but it happens sometimes

None of that is required. Fit your ecu, bigger injectors and turbo, retune and enjoy. 250rwkw is a walk in the park for an rb25. You'll need a better fuel pump if you don't already have one. Walbro 255 for that sort of power will be fine.

A mate of mine blew his engine from a failed oil pump at the track because he was on the limiter for a couple seconds. His was a neo seems like its a common issue, of course can keep it off the limiter but it happens sometimes.

A mate of mine blew his engine from a failed oil pump at the track because he was on the limiter for a couple seconds. His was a neo seems like its a common issue, of course can keep it off the limiter but it happens sometimes.

I'll change that to none of that is required if you stay off the limiter.

Raise rpm limit to 10k. Lol. Honestly man there's heaps of unopened rb25's out there pushing above 300rwkw doing hard track work and surviving for years. If you want to pull an engine apart to fit a crank collar and oil pump, go right ahead, you may as well put some forged pistons and rods in it and then you can go out and test how much limiter it will take before it goes bang. Then you can tell us how many seconds it took so everyone knows the limit :)

Not sure if the RB25 shares parts with the 26, but my car showed up with 5 destroyed main bearings from what was no doubt oil starvation. BUT the thing I want to add here is that mine also had 2 cracked valve guides. They are brittle and crack. I would change them for bronze and get the head overhauled in a heartbeat if you are pulling the head off.

If speaking of reliability.

No need to open the engine for 250kw. Use a quality synthetic oil and a quality tuner.

If you want to bash the limiter go right ahead and wait till it blows. Then pull engine and spend the $10K - $20K to make it stronger.

  • Like 1

Bragging rights. 

370kW here, has about 27psi into it and used for track. Usually run about 23 to 25psi on the track. Motor has 350000km+ still going strong. Just pushes a bit of coolant after 10 hard laps at 27psi. Seems ok about 23 to 25psi, all it has are ARP non 2000 studs.

250kW is a walk in the park.

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, Blakeo said:

A mate of mine blew his engine from a failed oil pump at the track because he was on the limiter for a couple seconds. His was a neo seems like its a common issue, of course can keep it off the limiter but it happens sometimes.

Well that kinda sucks. Tracking being a drift event or circuit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...