Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now that just sucks - doubly so. You can't fight them on fuel quality. I once went through 20L in 25km. Car was billowing black smoke the whole time. It was clearly poor fuel in the stock auto GTS25t and it compensated by going mega rich and using as much as it needed to protect the engine.

The bolts are definitely a no-no to re-use.

Rebuilding my engine last time I was torqueing them up and one kept turning a bit too far, then bang. It was nowhere near first torque and had failed. I measured the rest and found some were a fair bit longer than the others so got new ones from Nissan.

So is the builder springing for the new work or was it your decision to use the old bolts?

Initially he was going to get me to spring for it - act of god he called it.

Thing was - it was his decision to re-use. Could have turned out nasty, but he has come good and is paying for the new block, all labour and all machining. As it turns out there is a fair bit salvagable from the blow up. I am paying for 3 new pistons, bearing and gaskets and of course bolts. Not too bad considering - just pissed off that I have to go through the whole bedding process again. Haven't been on the track now for nearly 4 months. <_<

  • 1 month later...
i got a qestion need answering iv got a mate with a R31 that f*king boots his turbo is at 15 PSI n he wants to turn it up 2 17 u rekon thats a smart move or not?

Need more info on the engine mate, what motor? what turbo? kms? condition? blow smoke? rattles? leaks?

how longs a piece of string?

Another one to add to the pile.

R33 GTST 95 mod.

Unichip

Intercooler

GCG hi-flow

Finer filter panel

Full exhaust & split dump

Bosch pump & sard regulator

215rwkw

very happy !

Unfortunately this is where it all goes wrong.Developed a small hiccup at 2,000rpm then 2,500 and took it to biggest most expensive u-beaut tuner in sydney.On the dyno and he says crank angle sensor gone.Removes unichip and cas is fine.So must be unichip.

Couple of days later same hiccup.Then it is fine.Then really bad.Back to dyno.He says must be cas.So I had one ready and away we go.Car drives great.Couple of days and no power below boost but goes good on boost.At this time I decide to install pfc and hi-flo injectors.Hope pfc will fix problem.225rwkw and running great.Before I get home notice lack of power below boost and slight hiccup.Take it to Advan who kindly run it up on the dyno then street test and we confirm timingis rooted.Back to original tuner and dynoed.Tickles pfc and says it`s fine.Go to start it and won`t start.

Timing belt has let go when I turned it over to get off the dyno.All the trouble I had been having was in fact the belt which had lost 30% of it`s teeth.Belt had done 30,000km`s but looked like 200,000.Cheap belt from f#@%$wits are us.Cheap-skate so called engineer who`s favourite colour is green possibly damaged it when installing.

  • 4 weeks later...

Engine/Car: r33 series1 rb25det

Type of failure: Number 5 piston letting go and destroying block and crank and deep grooves in head. Oil pump failure. Dads a mechanic he told me it was probably a sticky valve making noise, should have checked oil pressure. Noise was piston hitting head!

Factors influencing the failure: Warm weather, Oil pump, Motor had a couple of dodgy coil packs leaning out and detonating. Poor maintanece really. Learnt that mistake

State of tune of the engine: FMIC, cat back 3.14, hks pod, n1 water pump,

Suspension and tyres: kyb struts, jap springs of some sort, pinaples, control arm bushings. 235 45 17 pottenza reo 40

Oil used and service interval: Good sythetic oil cant remember, Serviced approx 3000km before this

General comments: Very inconvenient time for this to happen. Has made me slightly wary of rb25det now. Had a sylvia before this gave it hell still going strong! I want a head up display oil pres now!

we could barely make out mitsubishi stamp.The rubber had completely fallen apart.

Have a mitsubishi belt on mine at the moment, just gone 20,000kms old and it looks like rat shit... must be a common problem.

Got a brand new HKS one sitting in is box waiting to go on.

Engine/Car: r33 rb25det

Type of failure: broken ring on #6 piston.

Factors influencing the failure: had the car tuned on 12psi (safc2), while at the drags the dodgy bleed valve spiked to 18psi and actually held it there during my burnout. it was smoking all the way down the line.

State of tune of the engine: 3" turbo back, fmic, pod, safc

Suspension and tyres: stock

Oil used and service interval: nulon synthetic.

General comments: DO NOT USE A BLEED VALVE. THEY SUCK.

  • 5 weeks later...

Me again

Engine/Car: R33 GTR

Type of failure: Spun bearings due to suspected oil surge. <_<

Factors influencing the failure: 2nd lap of a track day. Fairly warm day.

State of tune of the engine: approx 700bhp (fly)

Suspension and tyres: Ohlins / Eibach running Dunlop D02g's

Oil used and service interval: Motul Race Oil - changed after every track session.

General comments: After last rebuild used Tomei sump baffle kit, cam cover baffles, gallery restrictor and Accusump. Obviously not enough. Currently having the sump modified by Performance Metalcraft. Hopefully this should do the trick :P

  • 3 weeks later...

R32 GTS4 - RB20det

Type of Failure: Spun bearing - oil surge

Factors influencing failure: A litre down on oil, round a corner 5k revs, third gear full noise, bang

State and tune of engine: 3" cat back, pod filter, ran well for 15yr old

Suspension and tyres: stock suspension, new 16" rubber

Oil used and service interval: Castrol magnetic (daily driver) only serviced it once in the month I owned it b4 it blew...

General Comments: The one time I didnt check the oil b4 going for a drive, and I find out now what they mean by a cheap car isnt cheap if you cant afford to fix it when it goes bang... The replacement engine went in this weekend - what a mission! I have never done a swap b4, but I had a friend who has, it took us 4 days. I have bought some nice synthetic oil now, and looking for a 5" oil pressure guage :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you get 12v at one of the relay pins with IGN on, and 12v at another for about 3 sec when you turn the key from ACC to start, then yes you can just earth the relay trigger pin. Just have a look at the top of the relay, it should tell you which pin needs earth when the 12v signal is sent (or if it's not clear, just post the pic and we can work it out). If you always have 12v at 2 pins with IGN on, they it is earth triggered by the ECU which makes it harder to fix (you really need to check the ECU pin is earthing when it should, and if so it is a wiring issue from there to the relay.
    • Tomei make a 1.5mm restrictor, I'd just use that.
    • Got the gearbox in and the front drive shafts.
    • Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case.   For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument.   For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint.    But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights   Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light   Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.
    • Took it to all Japan day, flogged the hell out of it and took it all, am a very very happy man  don’t know how that ended up in Greg’s thread before
×
×
  • Create New...