Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone I've recently built in RB30 26 in my R34 series 2 I'm running Evan's waterless coolant new technology my car sits at around 95 degrees wondering if this is a standard temp in comparison to standard coolant additives.16e301d34ef80ed723f53bf3c1d76420.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466858-evens-waterless-coolant/
Share on other sites

Never used evens waterless coolant but in theory shouldn't it run cooler? 95 degrees sounds hot for normal operating temp, my stockish rb25 sits around 82-83 operating temp with normal Nulon coolant and stock radiator.

though on the track my mates 25/30 sees 100+ regularly and nothing drastic has happened.

Just had a look through some of my logs.

Summer driving around without too much traffic sees anywhere from 70-85'C

Summer during stop start 80-92'C

Summer while setting up anti lag and launch control 85-93'C

Thermo fans, 42mm rad, Penrite coolant. Using the factory ecu temp sensor to adaptronic. Fmic. Fans turn on at 90'C and turn off at 86'C

 

I remember a mates NEO used to sit around 95'C during summer. The defi alarm would go off every now and then (100'C?). Stock rad, unknown coolant with a fmic.

 

How well calibrated is your coolant temp sensor @brodielezgt  

That seems like a very low temp for std rad @dyl33 

3 minutes ago, brodielezgt said:

When should I start getting worried.

I wouldn't be worried. Seems normal from what I've personally seen. And a quick skim through some old temp threads shows anywhere from 70'C-105'C to be normal. Obviously depending on your location and season.

 

Something to think about - With no fans and bonnet shut in the sun at idle, my temps seem to progressivly slow down once they get over 95'C. Takes roughly 10mins to get to 110'C

my mate ran this in his LS
temps improved 10-15C

but, he also had a leaking radiator repaired at the same time so i'm not sure if that had anything to do with the decrease in temps

not worth it i think. You wouldn't want a hose full of oil letting go on a high speed bend

plus, you have to completely remove all the water from your engine otherwise the product won't work properly (its best to use on a new engine that's never had water)

to completely dry out the water gallery's we removed the top and bottom radiator hose then connected a leaf blower into the top hose and let it blow into the engine for 10 minutes until there wasn't any more water coming out of the bottom hose


What did you  expect it to do? It is not designed to make your engine cooler it just has a higher boiling point than water...190 deg C if you believe the label. So water temp is not the concern - you should keep an eye on your oil temperature and pressure.

  • Like 1

Temps will be higher than water... for a perfectly working system.
Water has better heat capacty so will cool slightly better, until it boils. the point of this stuff is for bikes/crappy old cars etc where the cooling system is poor and you don't want it to boil even if it gets hot.
The racing coolant is the opposite, where you need maximum cooling (and also don't want to dump glycol on the track) and your cooling system is on point so its not going to get to a temp where it could boil.

 

Basically, best coolant is normal coolant.

  • Like 1

I ran this coolant in my RB26 after engine rebuild as heard promising results. Turned out to be quite expensive (compared to normal coolant) and as already said was really no different to normal coolant under normal driving conditions. I too expected it to run cooler but that is not what it's meant to do and just resists it more effectively. Didn't really get to test it properly under extreme conditions but had a few leaks and it smelt quite strange when spilt as well. When it leaks of course you must only top it up with more Evans coolant which is really quite difficult to find (had to buy mine through mail order) so if you are not carrying some with you and get a leak you are in allot of trouble... Ended up getting rid of it after not very long as it is just too expensive for not a great deal of benefit under normal driving conditions. More inconvenient to maintain for me and never had any problems with normal coolant anyway so just went back to that.

Im about to put in a new koyo radiator and during my research came across Red Line Water Wetter

The claims and reviews give it decent thumbs up, naturally I bought some as an option

Anyone able to vouch for it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...