Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On September 24 a driver in a silver or grey FD Honda Civic (or some other Honda sedan) decided it'd be a good idea to speed through a red light.

I couldn't stop in time and we collided :( . The guy in the Civic then left the scene :mad:

Thought I'd share the damage while I sit here waiting for the bad news that my baby is written off.

Out of interest, what do you guys think? Definitely a write off?

 

Also, just in case, if anyone has seen a smashed up civic in the Cabramatta area in the last week - any info would be appreciated.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

Edited by Wight
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467070-it-might-be-bye-bye-to-my-34/
Share on other sites

Damn that's rough mate, write off for sure!! 

I had Troy from iron chef try to source me another clean bayside GTT for around 6 months with very little luck before I called it quits, hopefully you can find another one!

sorry to hear
Exact same thing happened to my mate's super clean r33 gtst too in 2005 when the r33s were going for around 20k still, except it was hit by a kingswood and the kingswood fled the scene.
Police wasn't much help back then.
It's a shit thing to go through and I definitely know how you feel

I'm considering buying the car back, getting a front cut (without the engine) and repairing it that way. Hopefully engineless front cuts aren't too expensive.

That is, of course,  it isn't a statutory write off - which I doubt.

 

Unfortunately the police haven't done much now either. Because of where it happened there is just no footage. They did at least check the servo nearby,  which was nice.

Essentially you need to ask the insurance company for the salvage value of the car. This is what you need to pay them.to keep your wreck. If you choose to keep it then they pay you out the insured value less your excess less salvage, then you.need to goto the rms to get a form to fill out to apply for the right to repair it. Then have the repairs sign off saying it's done properly. Then get a blueslip. Then take the rms permission, the repairers sign off and all recipes to the rms to get it registered again.
However there is still a small loop hole. The wovr will ignore most 15 year old or older cars and not record them as write offs. So that may or maynot happen

  • Like 1

I was aware about the salvage value. But wasn't aware of the specifics regarding the RMS. Thanks heaps for the info - I'll look further into it.

I love this car, so will definitely be trying everything to get it back on the road, unless the cost is exorbitant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...