Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I though I would like it, but, I hated my 2015 STI, it just did not inspire me, even after some parts and tuning to get about 220 kwatw from it (only tuned up enough to not worry the glass ringlands), stock it made 145 kwatw on the Pulse dyno

I know no one who made over 250 kwatw reliability from one with a stock engine

I fell for the WRC fan boy marketing 

I was comfortable though, and cabin noise was minimal, so it technically was a OK daily, fuel consumption wasn't good for a true daily if that's a thing you look at though

images.jpeg-22.jpg

On 23/04/2022 at 11:42 PM, BK said:

2015+ FA20DIT CVT WRX better than all the above in the real world, and faster point to point on the street.

How was the cvt with cruise control?

Have found some wring themselves when going uphill. Take cruise off  and can maintain a much lower rpm by yourself for the same climb.

On 24/04/2022 at 9:03 AM, mlr said:

I though I would like it, but, I hated my 2015 STI, it just did not inspire me, even after some parts and tuning to get about 220 kwatw from it (only tuned up enough to not worry the glass ringlands), stock it made 145 kwatw on the Pulse dyno

I know no one who made over 250 kwatw reliability from one with a stock engine

I fell for the WRC fan boy marketing 

I was comfortable though, and cabin noise was minimal, so it technically was a OK daily, fuel consumption wasn't good for a true daily if that's a thing you look at though

images.jpeg-22.jpg

That's a shame.

The new sti are a gorgeous looking car.

Shame amd surprising they cant cope with even 250 on stock internals.

Haven't had the chance to drive long term, let alone own, but I found them OK in the stints I drove used ones when getting them ready for sale.

On 4/23/2022 at 4:45 PM, luke gtr said:

That's a shame.

The new sti are a gorgeous looking car.

Shame amd surprising they cant cope with even 250 on stock internals.

Haven't had the chance to drive long term, let alone own, but I found them OK in the stints I drove used ones when getting them ready for sale.

The STI in particular still had an EJ engine in it. It pretty much never had the ability to take big power. The entire block flexes easily and is not conducive to a long and healthy life with big power. The factory top-mount intercooler heat soaks very easily. The factory cast pistons put the compression ring very high up making it very vulnerable to knock in order to reduce crevice volume for emissions. Considering how weak the block is the 2.5L EJ257 used in the US is basically not designed to ever be stroked as the rod ratio is already on the low side. Normally not a problem, plenty of Honda engines run pretty extreme rod ratios but an EJ block is a delicate thing. The S209 in the US made 340 hp using an HKS GTIII-RS turbo and that is probably the absolute limit of what Subaru/STI powertrain engineers were comfortable with warrantying.

On 24/04/2022 at 9:13 AM, luke gtr said:

How was the cvt with cruise control?

Have found some wring themselves when going uphill. Take cruise off  and can maintain a much lower rpm by yourself for the same climb.

Can't say I've noticed a problem and does its thing nicely, but I can't remember being on cruise control on a really steep hill either as I'd be manual anyway.

On 24/4/2022 at 9:45 AM, luke gtr said:

That's a shame.

The new sti are a gorgeous looking car.

Shame amd surprising they cant cope with even 250 on stock internals.

Haven't had the chance to drive long term, let alone own, but I found them OK in the stints I drove used ones when getting them ready for sale.

People are making well over that on stock internals now, e85 does wonders 

On 24/04/2022 at 9:45 AM, luke gtr said:

That's a shame.

The new sti are a gorgeous looking car.

Shame amd surprising they cant cope with even 250 on stock internals.

Haven't had the chance to drive long term, let alone own, but I found them OK in the stints I drove used ones when getting them ready for sale.

In the end when I looked at it I saw a Kia

I prefer the look of the older bug eye style of wrx

On 24/04/2022 at 12:04 PM, r32-25t said:

People are making well over that on stock internals now, e85 does wonders 

E85 is a PITA for a daily 

Lots of coin for fair-weather gain

I've ummed and arred over E85 alot, but due to it being logically hard to find it isn't worth the outlay for me

E85 is great for race cars or strictly low range weekenders, but for me, who calls a 400km a short drive, it ain't worth it for 2 or 3 trips to the drags a year

And there's no way in hell I'm carrying around jerry cans going for a cruise

On 24/04/2022 at 11:36 AM, mlr said:

E85 is a PITA for a daily 

Lots of coin for fair-weather gain

I've ummed and arred over E85 alot, but due to it being logically hard to find it isn't worth the outlay for me

E85 is great for race cars or strictly low range weekenders, but for me, who calls a 400km a short drive, it ain't worth it for 2 or 3 trips to the drags a year

And there's no way in hell I'm carrying around jerry cans going for a cruise

That's why flex setup - best of both worlds. Have the advantage of E85 for your higher power performance scenarios and the convenience of just putting in 98 for normal use. No switching maps or draining the tank, so I definitely think it's worth it.

  • Like 1
On 4/23/2022 at 7:04 PM, r32-25t said:

People are making well over that on stock internals now, e85 does wonders 

With an EJ25? The limit for ringlands I thought was due to combustion chamber pressures. While any one knock event can instantly kill the pistons at 250 kW to the wheels or so my understanding was even normal combustion could still damage the piston ringlands. Then from there the next thing to break would be conrods.

On 24/4/2022 at 1:18 PM, joshuaho96 said:

With an EJ25? The limit for ringlands I thought was due to combustion chamber pressures. While any one knock event can instantly kill the pistons at 250 kW to the wheels or so my understanding was even normal combustion could still damage the piston ringlands. Then from there the next thing to break would be conrods.

I’ve seen almost 300 with e85 in stock block 

On 4/23/2022 at 8:24 PM, r32-25t said:

I’ve seen almost 300 with e85 in stock block 

Stock block or stock bottom-end? I can believe stock block. The question is also how long you can make that power for. Subaru has killed 100% stock STIs under warranty by shipping poor tunes.

On 24/04/2022 at 8:33 AM, mlr said:

fuel consumption wasn't good for a true daily if that's a thing you look at though

images.jpeg-22.jpg

That's where the FA20 shines. At 10.6:1 compression running up to 1.6bar boost stock I've seen in the 6s for L/100km and up to 800km from a tank ! - it's insane how good the fuel economy is.

Granted the missus generally drives it being a bit of a lead foot and I still notice she's generally around 9 - 10ish L/100km.

On 4/23/2022 at 8:52 PM, BK said:

That's where the FA20 shines. At 10.6:1 compression running up to 1.6bar boost stock I've seen in the 6s for L/100km and up to 800km from a tank ! - it's insane how good the fuel economy is.

Granted the missus generally drives it being a bit of a lead foot and I still notice she's generally around 9 - 10ish L/100km.

The FA has a ton of technologies in it that make it halfway acceptable for fuel economy compared to the positively stone-age EJ. GDI allows for scavenging without a bunch of fuel missing the combustion chamber and going straight out the exhaust. Cooled EGR allows for a lot more knock margin than the engine would have otherwise. TGV allows for good fuel mixing even at low RPM with GDI. There's also part load Atkinson cycle operation. 

On 24/4/2022 at 1:27 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Stock block or stock bottom-end? I can believe stock block. The question is also how long you can make that power for. Subaru has killed 100% stock STIs under warranty by shipping poor tunes.

Completely unopened engine, look up “the rumble shake” on Facebook 

On 24/04/2022 at 4:08 PM, r32-25t said:

Completely unopened engine, look up “the rumble shake” on Facebook 

"Rumble shack"

Was a very fashionable place with the young 'uns at work when they were doing Subies a few years ago

Some moved to Pulse, which is why I sent mine to Pulse

Most of the rev head young 'uns then moved to VW or Audi's a few years ago, now they either have jacked up black smoking diesel 4x4 or Holdens and Ford utes and sedans with a mix of V8 and boosted Barra's

It's rare to see, or hear, a STI anymore

Really depends on personal preference but I think they are reliable enough to daily after owning a 2x Evo 8 GSRs, 2x Evo 9 GSRs, a X GSR and a X MR. The cars drive really well stock and with bolt ons can make 330-350 to the wheel with a good tune. Personally the X MR was really nice in traffic, had a lot of room inside/comfy, and was sneaky fast. However, it did feel a bit bulky compared to the 8 and 9. If you want something a bit more agile I’d lean towards a IX GSR. Although interior changes were minimal, I did like the extra comfort stock (leather seats) compared to the 8. 

On 29/04/2022 at 3:41 PM, Dag33r said:

Really depends on personal preference but I think they are reliable enough to daily after owning a 2x Evo 8 GSRs, 2x Evo 9 GSRs, a X GSR and a X MR. The cars drive really well stock and with bolt ons can make 330-350 to the wheel with a good tune. Personally the X MR was really nice in traffic, had a lot of room inside/comfy, and was sneaky fast. However, it did feel a bit bulky compared to the 8 and 9. If you want something a bit more agile I’d lean towards a IX GSR. Although interior changes were minimal, I did like the extra comfort stock (leather seats) compared to the 8. 

And I believe the 9 had mivec too?

Have heard this helps dramatically when tuning.

 

Haven't driven any other evos(apart from X mr's) but can imagine they would definitely feel bulkier, as they are much bigger in general.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...