Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On 17/12/2016 at 1:37 PM, R33gtst2016 said:

Or is it not a gasket just sealant ?

do not ever use sealant, you'll end up in a sad financial mess if you do.

OEM seal or OEM seal those are your options.

Note the S14 and S15 seal fits too on your R33 R34

So I've f**ked up along the way somewhere I changed it over I thought all went well, but won't start, cranks over but doesn't start tonight after work I gotta take it back out and double check my wiring were right positive to positive n negative to negative, there's a dash light on but I dno what it is

That tells you when your Cat Coverter is blocked (there is a temp probe in the Cat that sets off the light at a certain temp)

Could it be a Cat problem? If that is coming up when you are trying to crank I doubt it. I'd only expect it to come up after the car is driven for a bit

Are you hearing the pump run? If no it may be a wiring issue. I remember remarking at how brittle/fragile some of the fuel pump wiring was, maybe something has broken with those. If you are hearing the pump run I would pull the whole assembly back out and make sure everything is installed as it should be.

I would confirm you are hearing the pump first. Then, if you are, pull the fuel line going to the fuel rail off and try to crank it and see how strong of a stream you have (you may want to just test for pressure).

If those tests "fail" then I would pull the pump out and inspect everything.

Not sure if its the same on R32's but on my R33 if i turn the key about halfway between on and start and hold it there the fuel pump runs. Did so with Power FC anyway and the Link does it to however cuts the pump after a few seconds

  • 2 weeks later...

What would happened when I try to start the car if I didn't put the hoses on correctly? I've checked I can defiantly hear the pump, but still won't start just cranks, thought that I've put everything back the way it was originally but don't understand why won't start. Any ideas

Maybe you have the inlet and outlet hoses crossed? On the 32s that space is tight and they could easily get crossed. Easiest way to check is to pull fuel line going to rail and reroute it into a bucket. If you can crank it and fuel comes out, you know they are plumbed correctly.

Also, what condition is your fuel filter in? A clogged filter could give you grief as well.

If you took the hoses off at the pump and aren't getting any flow, the issue is in the tank. If the pump was working correctly you'd have fuel everywhere.

To answer your last question, you want to focus on the hose between the filter and the rail, removing it from where it connects to the rail.

But start at the tank, it sounds like your pump isn't pumping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...