Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, admS15 said:

Edward Lee's is upset you killed one of his 'low km' enginesemoji22.png

Man these low km RB25s are less reliable than a VW motor. Part of me is saying a C63 AMG is more reliable lol

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Man these low km RB25s are less reliable than a VW motor. Part of me is saying a C63 AMG is more reliable lol

Yeah nah, you need more RB in your life but I won't argue against a C63 either. Do both, lol :)

  • Like 1

Funny you say that, I own a RB25 but mainly tune SR20s lol.

Rebuild plans so far, still indecisive about a few items:

Spool rebuild kit with the CP Pistons, Spool Sump, Camtech 264 mini-brappers, Performance Springs

 

Now the indecisive items:

Spool spline oil pump gears with an N1 pump, and Spool head drain.

Also my thoughts, if I run the head drain there wouldn't real need to run oil restrictor right? or wrong?

  • Like 1

I was under the impression many people had seen the head "drain" was actually just a sump vent in effect. 

I'd do both if I had it all apart, never think about it again. 

Yeah I had a good chat to Piggaz about it, looks like I'll run the restrictors still.

Funny it seems people are against running the spline driven pump gears say there isn't enough "movement" for slight crank imperfections and could chew up the pump. sigh.....

Yeah looks like I'll get the Nitto pump, it's only a bee's dick more than the Spool spline billet gears and a N1 Oil Pump housing.

I was trying to make the motor bullet proof, and that means rev limiter abuse proof like 1JZ and 2JZ, but I've read that the poor harmonics of the RB crank itself is enough to cause the crank snout to move and exceed it's normal circular travel cause any form of spline driven pump to misalign and go chomp. "Apparently" through Facebook whispers Nitto did the whole spline drive thing and abandoned it because it worked out more reliable keeping that Nissan oil pump drive style.

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

How that limiter behaves has a bit of an impact too, if only you knew a good tuner. 

I do, he is me lol. Like Scarface once said, I trust me lol.

My limiter has a soft cut at 7400rpm followed by a hard cut at 7700rpm with timing pulled before it hits the limiter.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah looks like I'll get the Nitto pump, it's only a bee's dick more than the Spool spline billet gears and a N1 Oil Pump housing.

I was trying to make the motor bullet proof, and that means rev limiter abuse proof like 1JZ and 2JZ, but I've read that the poor harmonics of the RB crank itself is enough to cause the crank snout to move and exceed it's normal circular travel cause any form of spline driven pump to misalign and go chomp. "Apparently" through Facebook whispers Nitto did the whole spline drive thing and abandoned it because it worked out more reliable keeping that Nissan oil pump drive style.

This is an interesting point. You'd think Nissan spent a great deal of effort on engineering something reliable, but I guess something went slightly wrong with the crank. Even after 20 years, Nitto found that sticking with Nissan's final design choice was the 'best'. I guess all those Group C experiences didn't go to waste :P

BTW, what about Reimax gears vs. Nitto pump?

Have done a bit of reading on the spline drives, they seem to be used in the UK a fair bit.

Think someone on here (in the build threads somewhere) is doing a build with the spline, and put up the fitting instructions. I think it mentioned removing the dowels that locate the oil pump to the block, nip up the bolts, rotate the crank a few times (guess to "centre" the splines) then torque bolts to spec.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...