Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

I Genuinely am disappointed that the head is going back onto that block........

yeah would be better as a table with a small plaque with the words "A Real RB Head"

What am I missing here? Is the block not clean enough or something? 

 

Or are you suggesting 3L block with 3.4L stroker? 

Edited by ActionDan
  • 2 weeks later...

Not much excitings lately, been busy with house stuff and wedding planning however managed to clean up the block a little. Been contemplating throwing in forged pistons and rods however that's just opening up a new can of worms. The initial plan was to throw in a stocker motor but.... that didn't go to plan lol.

So being sensible I'm only installing new conrod bearings, spool crank collar, spool billet oil pump gears and then balance the crank. Just trying to contact a few machine shops but they seem to be so hard to get to. Might just rock up and drop it off.

Typical RB cranks, a whole 4mm to drive the oil pump LOL.

20170525_210407.thumb.jpg.df77967044f7799a36a27f0bd22b090f.jpg

20170525_214009.thumb.jpg.4f10dbc8402bf2d3830e485158081323.jpg

20170525_215529.thumb.jpg.90c600e40d700542a19bdeeaec555421.jpg

2 hours ago, R377 said:

 

With how much boost you run, i thought forged pistons would be a necessity

It's not boost that blows apart motors, it's torque :)

Also being a NEO motor she should be alright with a healthy amount of boost and power. Being a non-GTX style wheel now, I won't be screwing in silly amounts of boost like before.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Lek shu, have been super busy with other shit so le siet bok was put on the back burner. However look what turned up last night? :)

(My mate picked it up for me from HOR thus the not so good portrait photo)

IMG-20170616-WA0026.thumb.jpg.5984925762f865728c4fa6e723423d43.jpg

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...