Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Add it to your list of things to do 😂

More than happy to explain it and take you through it, alternatively you could use a PDM and double up outputs to allow 50A loads.

I went down this route because I set it up years ago before PDMs were a common thing. 

Been meaning to tidy it up for years, and install a 2nd SSR. Found the time to do it now, since I'm not working (on paternity leave). It's amazing how motivated I am now because I'm not working my normal job. It's like my corporate job drains my soul of everything else.

Today, finished off the wiring from SSR to fuel pumps, I integrated fly back diodes into the wiring for sex appeal, instead of running them externally over the surge terminals.

PXL_20230902_045148310.thumb.jpg.ac035f7b53513b8de09b81f0b6f8d4f1.jpg

PXL_20230902_052737557.thumb.jpg.65605ace33481b9d65e2e6a4600e1bce.jpg

PXL_20230902_052744635.thumb.jpg.79c715bc5b926f743685d6c370625ae0.jpg

PXL_20230902_053354728.thumb.jpg.02500ca7ae3fb72395589b449b4a6209.jpg

It's a long list....  😅

Yeah definitely looks a lot neater than across the terminals,  good job!  You should start your own little Asian sweatshop now you're pumping out the kids and off work.  Get the kids swinging off the soldering iron bangin out custom PWM setups for Skylines! 🤣

29 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

It's a long list....  😅

Yeah definitely looks a lot neater than across the terminals,  good job!  You should start your own little Asian sweatshop now you're pumping out the kids and off work.  Get the kids swinging off the soldering iron bangin out custom PWM setups for Skylines! 🤣

LOLOLOL brah, there's no solder in that setup 🙂

Watching too many HP Academy videos and reading up on the Motorsport Wiring page on Facebook.

Would be nice if I could use the kids to build stuff I could sell, works for me 😂

  • Haha 2

It is good to stay away from solder, particularly in track use, as the vibration and heat from the soldering can break adjacent wires.

You won't find any solder in a factory harness, even back to the mid 80s

30 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

sounds like you need a bigger TV :P

LOL.. I do not, I wanted a smaller one and my wife said let's go a size up.

  • Haha 2
2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

LOL.. I do not, I wanted a smaller one and my wife said let's go a size up.

as the bishop said to the actress

Today, unboxed a box of new random shit I've collected over the years.

Fitted up new window stabilisers, as the old ones (most likely from factory) have worn down to the metal and ate the tint.

This also means I'll be getting the car re-tinted. Booked in next week for tint removal and re-tint in legal ceramic tint. The current one is stupid dark and also has started to go purple.

PXL_20230906_040322976.thumb.jpg.6c5f5a4b999db7ce196316d220fb36c8.jpg

PXL_20230906_034045190.thumb.jpg.4f9d54ed53a4da548b103498c719dbfc.jpg

PXL_20230906_032850284.thumb.jpg.c4852bf25806a3f5814b7a95b412dc27.jpg

PXL_20230906_032752353.thumb.jpg.c59db754eeced5391545a9e0469a0347.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Also re-fitted up infant seat mounts, this required me to attack those pretty speakers with a Dremel to allow the brackets to fit nicely against the car.

FB and wreckers wanted $50 for these brackets, I ended up buying them new for the same price from: 

https://rawsparts.com/nissan_skyline_r33/98-r33-gtr-cra-kit.html

PXL_20230904_032703869.thumb.jpg.2b41e15a2bb5b284157b1ab089a956e2.jpg

PXL_20230904_040527340.thumb.jpg.b3440d51b6c7317a42671fe4ceb9269d.jpg

Bah. Who needs tweeters in the parcel shelf anyway? I don't even have full range speakers in the shelf. Just 6.5" woofers suited to infinite baffle or very large enclosure. Driven from subwoofer output, no shitty treble.

Sound stage in my car is 100% from the front. Much better imaging.

@GTSBoy those speakers have the gain on quite low, merely there for fill and the odd time I drive around with no sub in the boot it adds a bit of bass back into the system when I turn off the high pass.

Also, if anyone has a keen eye, those are Jaycar Response Kevlar speakers from the early 2000s. 

Agreed rear speakers are useless, however I had them lying around in a box for nearly two decades so slapped them in when I removed the ghastly horrible 6x9s the previous owner put in back then.

Front stage has (also discontinued ancient stock) Jaycar Vifa 6.5" with Ribbon Tweeters, a bit harsh for my liking so (maybe or never) might replace with a pair of Morel Maximo if I feel like donating more money to the car vortex lol.

1 minute ago, Duncan said:

Autosalon, my favourite car event. So classy.

promo3.jpg

Could have at least polished some of the scratches out!

  • Haha 2

 I ended up tearing up my same vintage kevlar Response drivers in the front doors, after one got wet and corroded the voice coil area. Had to make up these bad boys to replace the flimsy masonite panels that had been in there for years. Still running the Response dome tweeters and crossovers against these. Sounds great. The extra work put into the mounting baffle and sealing were worth the....very large number of hours spent getting them right. I think the baffle is 16mm thick, so it needed a lot of shaping to fit under the trims.

20220922_135505crsm.thumb.jpg.4d8c202c41ce1c5be4e9cfc988a632ae.jpg

20220922_135527crsm.thumb.jpg.454efe34b4bd2b1845822eb8c687d097.jpg

 

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 2

@GTSBoy very nicely done, you also have too much time LOL.

My old white R33 had Focal 165K2 and I sandwiched 2x 16mm MDF sheets together and made something similar followed by painting them both in sound deadening. Door proceeded to get 2x layers of eDead (Dynamat knock off at the time).

This car, the fronts have had the stock plastic mounts attacked with a Dremel lol. I think I might get in touch with @Fhrx (hope you're still around Marty) to do my front stage and make a nice slim enclosure for a sub in the boot that also covers up all the SSR shit and surge tank lines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...