Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 04/01/2022 at 9:43 AM, Kinkstaah said:

LMCT+ sale when

Imagine that, would totally take it and walk straight into a BMW dealer

On 1/4/2022 at 10:04 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Imagine that, would totally take it and walk straight into a BMW dealer

 

On 1/4/2022 at 10:05 AM, ActionDan said:

oh f**k here we go again... ;)

 

On 1/4/2022 at 6:43 PM, admS15 said:

M2 comp is my vote

Got a colour preference or you maybe get the M3 to fit the family

 

I would go a boring run of the mill colour such as the one below. Don't need to wash it often, can get dirty and won't look dirty. Also would rock those stupid oversized Euro plates too to cover up the stupid front bar.

image.thumb.png.9788fd9276fec2bcad6d46d1a11c8f70.png

 

However, the thought of a M340i is making me more horny.

AWD, B58 platform, ZF box (ticking many boxes here)

image.thumb.png.58c6aad192bf7aea9afe40f968924776.png

On 1/5/2022 at 10:40 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

TBH I think the R33 GTS-t is uglier

Its amazing how ingrained these views get when you look at your car everyday and it's no longer unique to you. It doesn't take long at all for people to look at Skylines (for example) and get used to how they look and to them it's nothing special.

But to someone else who hasn't seen them before (or sees very rarely) they are OMGWTFBBQ good looking etc.

This could happen even if you have a F40 parked in your driveway.

On 05/01/2022 at 10:45 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Its amazing how ingrained these views get when you look at your car everyday and it's no longer unique to you

I purposely made mine blend it and boring looking so it wouldn't stand out, last thing I want is attention.

It's not even low, it's probably in the top 10% of the world's highest R33s LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...