Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CAR won't start after POD SWAP

So I originally had a BLITZ Pod filter on and decided to change it to a K&N Pod, and it was driving okay till about 20mins after a spirited run, at a red light it jumps into some sort of limp mode where I can't rev it over 2000Rpm even on Neutral. Had to make it home on 40kms. Engine light came on as well :S 

Its a R34 GTT Automatic 98

I have tryed resetting the ECU (battery disconnect) same results.

I then swapped back my BLITZ Pod and now the car won't start at all, could it be my AFM ?? 

 

Edited by Jonic
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468069-car-wont-start-after-pod-swap/
Share on other sites

You ask for help and then ignore most suggestions. Work methodically and properly eliminate each potential problem. About every third suggestion is the MAF, Did you actually get a new one? If not try this:

http://skylinefiles.blogspot.co.nz/2009/07/how-to-fix-your-rb-afm.html

and if that doesn't help then check the plug.

I just got my new AFM genuine and nope still same problem what a load of shitz, I tried starting without the AFM and it idles perfectly and with the AFM it readjusted itself and stayed on after I plugged it in while the car was running. Still won't let me go over 2000rpms zz

  • 4 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Jonic said:

It was the coolant temp sensor. Everyone is so clueless lol

Considering you created three threads for issues, don't expect further help with attitude like that. Remember, the people on here helping you are regulars and will remember you.

56 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

Considering you created three threads for issues, don't expect further help with attitude like that. Remember, the people on here helping you are regulars and will remember you.

my apologies to everyone, i did everything you guys told me but i still couldn't diagnose it and got frustrated cause it felt like I was the only one getting this problem on a Skyline and nothing was working. So excuse my attitude if you guys got insulted in anyway. Peace

11126933_952016398144421_473390593_n.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...