Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

16 hours ago, RBN1 said:

Cool.

So you didn't mind the increased understeer around corners?

I just set it to whatever feels right and its not a problem. Are you thinking that the transfer case mod will provide a better outcome? If so, how do you figure?

14 minutes ago, MrStabby said:

I just set it to whatever feels right and its not a problem. Are you thinking that the transfer case mod will provide a better outcome? If so, how do you figure?

ah ok cool.

A better outcome depends on the application, i'd say. I tried one of those manual controllers briefly in 2005/6? and didn't have much success - my experience though. The more I dialed it up, the more prominent the understeer. I always figured because it was attenuating the signal so 4wd was still active while cornering (different tracks - Winton, PI etc).

I did the transfer case mod after consulting with the place that built my car. (I did ask about putting a manual controller back in or getting a more advanced one to make it less it less tail happy). The advice from their experience was to get the transfer case mod done first instead of playing around with the 4wd programming etc. Reasons being they are old and worn and the mod will make the 4wd also come on harder not just earlier (awesome for corner exits etc). They told me a bit more but I can't remember anymore :)

  • 4 months later...

So just a quick update

i purchased a do-luck Tarzan g sensor, street model, will be installing it this week and hopefuly have some results next weekend 

my original gsensor keeps throwing error codes so was a good time to update it

So just a quick update

i purchased a do-luck Tarzan g sensor, street model, will be installing it this week and hopefuly have some results next weekend 

my original gsensor keeps throwing error codes so was a good time to update it

  • Like 3
  • 10 months later...

I know the last post is almost a year old.  I would very much like to know if more people have tried the Tarzan box since then?  From what I can find, the Tarzan box's biggest improvement over regular G sensor is under braking, and that's pretty much it.  The acceleration out of corner is claimed to be improved but appears to be not much of a talking point.

  • 4 months later...

So let me bring everyone up to speed - i took the leap and got a Midori Seibi Red G Sensor - the more aggressive one

1462403670_ScreenShot2018-10-05at11_53_02AM.thumb.png.80f250f6785e3774d7da236b35fd4435.png

346417959_ScreenShot2018-10-05at11_52_52AM.thumb.png.1c1d479cc7fb2f3e4de746bc2af16052.png

It was very easy to replace for the 32 GTR - direct remove old G Sensor - It comes complete with Brackets for a remove old and plug & play new.

I installed it and went for a Bathurst Supersprint the same weekend - i had issues with my Clutch throw out bearing but i thought it would survive the race - arrived there and did 2 runs down the hill into the chase to end on the straight - finished 21 / 70 cars that day with 2 runs in. 

What i noticed :-

  1. Car felt slower coming out - though the times speak differently - its more composed and coming out of bends the car felt flatter
  2. You will notice the Torque sensor moving slightly and in less gains - compared to the on and off from the old g sensors
  3. i destroyed my throw out bearing so i had to tow the car back (pic for reference) lol did a good one.

1481704152_ScreenShot2018-10-05at11_56_28AM.thumb.png.466f5fd40274f67271b6d0a3cf6d4d5e.png

Lost motivation after this - so i left the car for a couple of months and said - hey lets do it again - Got an ATS twin plate carbon clutch and a new ATS rear diff - got it installed

Headed to Wakie in August - it was a long hiatus

My last session at Wakie was 1:13 dry - then it started raining - last year. The car didnt feel as composed and the tail kept on trying to come out - at the fish hook - so throttle control with the old G sensor was very very sensitive 

This August with the new G Sensor - i finished the day with 1:09 before the brakes decided its time for new pads - so that was the quickest i could do with Z222 Hankook RS3 275/35/18 - UHP street tires - with 4 degree weather. 

What i noticed :

  1. The car still felt slow coming out of bends - felt flatter that i felt previously at Bathurst and not so twitchy - and i noticed this time is due to the fronts coming in earlier at a more gradual rate (torque meter movement - slow and steady) - making the car feel slow but the fronts are actually pulling you while the rear do the work
  2. i can keep the car with its tail just at an angle - while putting on the power much earlier and just pointing the front where i need it to be - inducing a nice slide out of Fish hook saving lots of time
  3. On the brakes - the car feels flat - not twitchy

Overall i rate them - for being a pure plug and play without any adjustments - it improved the characteristics of the old girl quite dramatically - i personally think - with a bit more control using this G sensor - would make it even more amazing (getting a Ruzic / torque controller mated to this G sensor)

So in my opinion - if anyone wants to go more and prob better - i think the DTMII looks like an amazing choice - or an ETS Pro which i think would be ultimate upgrade.

Either way - if you want a fuss free - no wiring - plug and play = improvement - i do say the Midori Seibi - is great upgrade for the older G sensors of the 32 GTR. It sends its reading a lot quicker and it makes the ol girl so much more lively.

Hope this helps anyone thinking of a G sensor - i have a friend who purchased the latest Tarzan G Box - when his car is out - i will write another review here on it.

772639255_WhatsAppImage2018-10-05at11_32_26AM.thumb.jpeg.8dedaf319f9703d182727612b1062bc6.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 years later...

Sadly they do not work in a 33 GTST.  I tried the Midori hoping it would get rid of my ALSD errors (62, 65 and 66).  It DID clear my 65 no power from  sensor and 66 codes side to side sensor) but I still have an error code for 62 (front and rear g sensor).  :(  I've tried 2 other OEM ones but both were bad and they are so hard to find :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...