Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Issue with alternator/headlights

So my r32 gtst is having this problem where my car batteries would die the next day so i changed the car batteries 3 times and the problem persist. I figured maybe it was my alternator so i got a multi-meter and tested it the numbers coming in were in the normal ranges. I tried all the load test and they came back normal but the one thing i noticed was when i had my headlights on and i revved the car the voltages would drop on the meter down to not so normal ranges around 12 volts. On idle everything is normal but when i rev up the car around 1500-2000 it goes down only when headlights are on any idea what could be the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469387-issue-with-alternatorheadlights/
Share on other sites

Why say "I got normal numbers"? wouldnt it make more sense to give actual voltage readings? not trying to be rude but perhaps they are not normal numbers.

It sounds like the altenator is not able to keep up with high load, so above statement is possibly correct. More info needed

flux capacitor needs replacing...lol

Take the alternator out and get it checked by an auto sparkie shop....they have the best test rigs for this and generally they will test for nothing or at worst nominal cost.

Sorry i assumed people would know what normal voltage readings is if they knew about what i was talking about lol. The voltage reading is around 13.90v-14.30v on idle no load with load 14.11v - 1370v with headlights on only it idles about the same but when revving the engine it drops too around 12.38v. Probably is the alternator thanks for the quick response.

On 04/03/2017 at 7:33 PM, Robzilla32 said:


This - you haven't installed an amp recently? Probably obvious but I did this recently and the battery was draining super quick.

I was actually trying to diagnose issues with HICAS, upping the earth strap definitely helped. But yes I have an amp (two actually haha).

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...