Jump to content
SAU Community

Rusted on nuts, how to remove

tridentt150v
 Share

Recommended Posts

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Rusted on nuts, how to remove

Just saw this vid and thought it would be good to share it, I haven't used it myself, but the vid looks impressive.

http://www.chonday.com/Videos/rusnutcankj4

Not sure which forum to use, mods can move it to maintenance or tutorials etc if they see fit.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469995-rusted-on-nuts-how-to-remove/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

OK so far the myth is busted. I have an old boat trailer which has been in the sea plenty of times so wheel nuts are pretty rusty.

I applied the candle and held the lighter under the nut til my fingers burnt (about a minute).

I tried the standard power bar with no effect. (BTW it was 24 deg outside)

If you look at the last pic you will see pieces of the candle which shows how hard I was holding it against the nut. It is my opinion that the lighter can't generate enough heat to heat the nut/stud to the point where they will melt the candle wax. After all the axle etc will act as a heat sink. I have applied CRC to another nut and will give the lighter/candle another go (not to the nut with the CRC) tomorrow and compare it with the CRC soaked nut.

I have in fact removed a wheel on the other side by soaking it in CRC and using a pipe on the end of the power bar. Thought the candle might be easier but its not looking good!

DSCF0831.JPG

DSCF0834.JPG

DSCF0832.JPG

DSCF0833.JPG

  • Like 1
Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

In the video it looks like he melts the wax between the stud and the nut. The nut in the vid looks thinner than yours so it may have heated up enough to wick some wax into the thread. 
A jet lighter or small plumbing gas torch would get some more heat on the thicker nut.

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

Yeah I think the situation the video shows it is wrong. From what i've heard the best application is on exhaust nuts and bolts that may have rusted together. The wax supposedly lubes the rust rather than the rust in the thread galling and seizing the nut when undoing it.

It's nothing a bit of dubbya dee or crc can't handle though.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted
Google Chemresearch Yield. Thats all you need 


But can it remove RB crank sprockets is the true test of any lubricant. Especially 25 year old rusted on RB30 ones. If yes I will buy some today. Have had so many mates reccomend different products and still nothing works very well, it seems nothing can get in between the crank and the sprocket.
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Crank sprocket. The big sprocket behind the harmomic balancer that you have to remove to change the oil pump or front main seal. It either practically falls off or takes the power of Thor using 11 pry bars to get off. No amount of spraying any sort of 'release liquid' works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...