Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

22 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Thanks, I'll have a sneak peak. 

I'm meant to be doing the dodgy budget build to just get mine going but this is Such a clean build that it's inspiring, and I'm thinking I should take the time to properly mount and clip things, and even give it a respray :(

Haha!! I just can't do dodgy, or slapped together. One of my favourite saying is: 'the poor man pays twice' and it has proven to be right on so many occasions that I now live by it. 

Taking your time and doing it right the first time is worth it, even just for the reward of job satisfaction in the end ?

 

Thanks for the words man. It helps to motivate me and keep this updated, that's for sure ?

10 minutes ago, TimmyMA70 said:

Haha!! I just can't do dodgy, or slapped together. One of my favourite saying is: 'the poor man pays twice' and it has proven to be right on so many occasions that I now live by it. 

Taking your time and doing it right the first time is worth it, even just for the reward of job satisfaction in the end ?

 

Thanks for the words man. It helps to motivate me and keep this updated, that's for sure ?

Poor man only pays once if he hasn't paid for it the first time around :P

My build is more of a "roadkill" build. Do what it takes to make it run for next to nothing kinda deal. 

On 04/07/2019 at 1:32 PM, MBS206 said:

Poor man only pays once if he hasn't paid for it the first time around :P

My build is more of a "roadkill" build. Do what it takes to make it run for next to nothing kinda deal. 

Ahh yes. Each to their own dude ? if it works for you, keep it up.

 

I enjoy trying to improve things, make them more suited to what I want out of the car as much as I do driving it, so this stage of the build isn't a chore for me at all. 

On 04/07/2019 at 1:20 PM, TimmyMA70 said:

'the poor man pays twice' and it has proven to be right on so many occasions that I now live by it.

Lol yep, right every time.. ???

  • Haha 1

Finished product on the wiring guys:

 

HKvJa1Ql.jpg

 

I was having clearance issues from my Whiteline strutbrace to the intake manifold. A local guy had a Cusco GTIR strut brace, so asked him for a lend of it. 

Fits really well. Has alot more clearance to the manifold and throttle body.

Unsure of the colour though. I have ordered a new one and I'll return this one.

However, I'm thinking I'll leave the brace blue until the car is all finished before I make my decision ?

 

4wuvGfSl.jpg

 

ibmPdj8l.jpg

 

The N14 is alot more complete currently, so took a snap ?

 

NOd6z1xl.jpg

 

Bought a sequential shift light too, should be excellent for track work. They're such a small compact unit though!

 

OTXwi8Al.jpg

 

That's all for now, as always, thanks for reading ?

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Very tidy. The blue strut brace matches the masking tape.

Thanks mate ?

 

I said the same thing to a mate of mine. Sent him a photo saying "I finally found a strut brace to match my masking tape"

??

Hey guys, just some more parts hoarding. This time for the intake:

Plan is to use my 6" ID airfilter on the 3.5" ID - 6" OD bellmouth, then weld the 3.5" to 3" transition onto that, then go to a 3" 45° or 60° aluminum mandrel bend (unsure yet) then to the throttle body (which is 3" OD) 

 

Anyhow, here are a couple of the parts.

 

xn3pbTDl.jpg

 

xiPukRLl.jpg

 

xrZedRal.jpg

 

Ou9FoTWl.jpg

 

lw9zbEml.jpg

 

As usual, thanks for reading ?

  • Like 2

Hey guys,

A bit of a milestone this weekend, the N14 has been off the road for 4 months now. Although I'm definitely honing in on it running soon!

The front bar and passengers side guard are finally on for good, both guard liners have also been refitted. The car (apart from the bonnet) is back together... finally!

ItmHuBVl.jpg



A bit of a teaser pic of whats to come with the intake, hopefully the bends should be here this week.

Zu6ipbsl.jpg


KDE3MM8l.jpg

 

iHaOLMZl.jpg

 

I have since removed the gearbox (I mocked the gearbox up to check clearance on everything else I have fitted)
Torqued up my Xtreme 3.9kg flywheel tonight, clutch will go on tomorrow afternoon (Xtreme HD Organic...I'm non turbo, so make f**k all torque remember ??)

UUHM6EPl.jpg

 

Thanks for reading

  • Like 4
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Slow on the updates again as you can see... Anyway, I'm back. Have had a few up's and down's as expected with making custom items. The thermostatic oil filter bracket I made whilst the engine was out, was only a guesstimate. Unfortunately when  I went to finish off the oil cooler lines, the 90 degree bends I was using fouled on the rocker cover, I managed to tweak it until there was clearance, however I wasn't completely happy with it.
Sooo, I made a new one. Much more rigid than the previous design, it is yet to be painted:

 

YMWpiIml.jpg

 

dtbDhBWl.jpg

 

cRicY6El.jpg

 

In between work and other commitments I began mocking up the intake components I had been piecing together, this is what I came up with:

 

6" OD bellmouth for the filter to mount on, down to 3.5" OD on the outlet, I continued the 3.5" for 130mm to a 3.5" - 3" aluminium reducer then to a 3" 60 degree mandrel bend.

 

RmAcO0cl.jpg

 

LUNLNaSl.jpg

 

The finished product, fabricated by yours truely:

SrKyLqdl.jpg

 

aS1wahdl.jpg

 

As I was welding each part of the intake together, the wall thickness was different between each component, so I went ahead and ported each piece after it was welded.

TuAOQkhl.jpg

 

lDKSWwdl.jpg

 

owt77o8l.jpg

 

The finished product:

 

gPZhiApl.jpg

 

As per usual guys, thanks for reading :)

  • Like 5

Small update guys:

 

I've reached the spaghetti stage of the build. In the process of wiring in the Haltech. Using bussed Deutsch plugs for the power supply to the injectors and the coil packs. I've mostly sussed out the Drive By Wire setup, it's reasonably straight forward to wire in too. 

 

Apart from that I've got a shitload of leftover inputs/outputs, which is to be expected with a 'basic' N/A build. However I'm going to run a separate loom with these in it, so they'll be easy to access if/when the time comes for a change or upgrade. 

 

UgLz56tl.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, another update:

 

Unfortunately the Ross crank trigger setup for FWD and RWD ended up being the same which ended up causing the sensor mount to contact the chassis rail. 

It was going to be extremely hard to modify that setup, however I found the Tarrks kit and thought I'd take a punt on it.

 

Pretty close!

 

lIttoL5l.jpg

 

N59SB5Dl.jpg

 

 

Modified the lower mount, where it bolts to the oil pump cover, much better:

 

f7GiCrml.jpg

 

zrOj0Byl.jpg

 

I've got the water pump all hosed up now too:

 

kyEcMpfl.jpg

 

X2L0lXGl.jpg

 

I started to make a bit of a template for the airbox too:

 

LKfBvzsl.jpg

 

Al54U5Yl.jpg

 

Going to finish on the wiring:

 

Had to do some extensive rewiring in behind the dash as I removed the fuse/relay box on the drivers side, so anything that wasn't redundant had to be rerouted. 

 

This is the wiring atm, ready for testing. Once it's all tested and proven, it'll be braided and taped to the existing looms. 

 

yjZApUOl.jpg

  • Like 3

Hey guys, 

A few more updates, have been busy wiring. Only have the gearbox sensors, the starter solenoid (received terminals for that this afternoon) electric water pump controller and the fuel pump to go and the car will be ready to crank. 

 

Anyway, a few pictures:

 

I have been trying to figure out a way to run the wiring across the rocker cover here, it always looks so messy in the OEM state. I've come up with this setup which should look alright once it's sprayed in wrinkle black, same as the rocker cover.

 

WFB91dPl.jpg

 

KdBhNWDl.jpg

 

Coil packs terminated

 

JHTCdlCl.jpg

 

NorhcEQl.jpg

 

Crank trigger, oil pressure sensor, oil temp sensor, knock sensor

 

XyjAMeXl.jpg

 

Starter solenoid wire and a voltage reference wire for the alternator 

 

yH0bg0kl.jpg

 

That's all for now guys, as usual thanks again for reading :)

  • Like 4
2 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Can you elaborate more on the issue with the crank trigger?

Hey man, yep, sure can.

Basically the mount where the sensor bolts to sat far too high, you see where the Tarrks setup, the sensor sits quiet low and pretty much in the centerline of the crank pulley.

The Ross setup had the sensor sitting higher and subsequently towards the front of the car more, which caused fouling on the chassis rail.

I couldn't really get any photos of what was happening due to access. However if you look closely on the photos I've put up of the Tarrks setup, you can actually see the mark the sensor mount left on the chassis rail.

 

It isn't a fantastic photo, as it wasn't taken at eye level to the crank, however you can see that the mount is alot bulkier and sits up way higher than the Tarrks setup


I believe when I did some investigation work that the mount which had been supplied as the 'FWD' mount kit was in fact the same as the RWD setup.

This would work awesome in a RWD application, where you have alot more real estate and no chassis rails for miles lol.


Lrn8dfXl.jpg

 

N59SB5Dl.jpg

Edited by TimmyMA70

Milestone update guys!

 

Cranked the car today, removed the coil packs and plugs, dumped the oil and put fresh oil in (Penrite 10/10ths 10w40)

 

Wanted to prime the oiling system. So a few bursts on the starter motor. 

 

With some luck I might have the car running by the end of the week, no pressure ?

  • Like 3

Hey guys, another update:

Pretty much all the engine bay wiring is complete. I need to finish the airbox off and make the intake mounts before I terminate the air temp sensor. The DBW throttle body has been terminated, however not braided, want to double check it all works before braiding it. 

rCYj63zl.jpg

 

Painted the 'loom channel' yesterday too, in wrinkle black. Definitely makes it disappear. 

 

ezlSRcLl.jpg

 

Thanks for reading guys ?

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...