Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was looking for something else on Google images and saw them pop up which led me to them.

I have bought a fair bit of stuff off Aliexpress like titanium bolts and step drills, and they are well up to the task for the price.

Engineered parts though, I'm still a bit skeptical about

Just stick the same factory that 50% of brake brands use for big brake kits out of Taiwan.

Cost price is like $700-900USD for a pair plus shipping for 4-6pots including pads/rotors/lines. Its just that most brands put decent mark-up on it. You can get them without a brand on the side of them, I dont know how you could get a set off them though...

Source: I got sponsored a set and it included cost-price invoicing.

Seems like every Japanese 'tuning' company has their own brake kits (looks the same as the ATTKD/D2 ones).

Those are the ones out of Taiwan. 326 Power, every VIP company in Japan, all the US instagram companies operating oout of someones loungeroom, etc

 

  • Like 1
On 6/20/2017 at 7:58 AM, Leroy Peterson said:

Just stick the same factory that 50% of brake brands use for big brake kits out of Taiwan.

Cost price is like $700-900USD for a pair plus shipping for 4-6pots including pads/rotors/lines. Its just that most brands put decent mark-up on it. You can get them without a brand on the side of them, I dont know how you could get a set off them though...

Source: I got sponsored a set and it included cost-price invoicing.

So you have been the guinea pig by the sounds of it :19_kissing: Which "non-brand brakes" did you get and what was the quality like?

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but when components are manufactured in China for a big company and the patent runs out, I'm sure that the manufacturing company is free to manufacture those designs from then on without approval? EG, all the carbon frames that the likes of Giant and Specialized get manufactured over there all have identical charbon copies. I know that one big hub company that has $200+ hubs is made under the same roof as the $70 Novatec hubs, only the brand name constitutes massive price hike and QC is not as stringent.

  • Like 1

My friend started selling brakes with his own business on them "Diamond Brake Design". I haven't really pushed them yet, but I was impressed at how straight-forward installation was. Everything in the kit was spot-on.

When we both saw top cars at WTAC and Aus/NZ Endurance racing use brakes from the same factory, so they do a pretty stellar job for amateur and semi-professional requirements. Obviously if someone was super serious about the setup you would source your own rotors and pads and probably have you're own brake lines too. So the kit would be just for the calipers and mounting bracket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...