Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Built both heads up today. Only put Supertech valve stem seals in and OEM for the rest as there are no aftermarket springs or valves available for these.
YGuO1s.jpg
9MS9HR.jpg

I now have a 4 week delay on rod bearings from Japan so that's pretty much all I can do until the new year. 

  • Like 2

Not much of an update but painted N1 vents and parking stick thingo.
Also cut out the middle of the bumper to suit the new plates and gain more airflow as these like to run hot. 
DNMnMM.jpg

  • Like 1

Don't like how big and bulky the airbox is and the stupid sound suppression part that just collects sand!

Started off like this
peCZvn.jpg

Chopped it in half and then I was left with this nice flat surface to adhere the new mounting section to.
cXT4vI.jpg
mk1QFw.jpg

Also noticed that the round section actually sits outside the chassis rail in the wheel arch, so incorporated a cold air intake port into the new piece.
iCd4Rg.jpg


 

Airbox mod.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Finished re-sleeving the whole harness tonight finally. What a mission but I think the outcome will pay off with a much neater engine bay. All I need to do is buy some larger clear heat shrink so I can branch the connectors off to where they need to go.

I won't tee it all off though until its on the engine as I might be able to re route some it to further neaten it up. 

EohFkE.jpg

 

Not Rywire or Chase bays spec but gives it that little extra professionalism. 

LVtyK5.jpg

 

Got the turbo back from getting rebuilt by MTQ as well. Shaft and cartridge journals were scored, some bent turbine fins and a small crack in the rear housing.

y3Hur4.jpg

 

The rod bearings are going to be here until January now, so when I get back from Holidays it's go, go, go!

Edited by Sack87
  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I got the engine to a stage where I could bolt the gearbox back on and drop it on the subframe. I can easily roll it all out for the remaining work to do on it for ease of access. 
Had more delays in timing chains not being in stock locally and having to get them from Japan again and they won't be here until next weekend. Have some small bits coming from over East too which were supposed to be here by Friday but not coming until next Thursday, otherwise I would have bolted the whole lot back in the car. 

mbycOK.jpg

  • Like 2

Engine harness is all but done. A few little brackets to be made and two more connectors needed. It's 10x neater than what it was. 
j6LlNZ.jpg
aXmazm.jpg

Injector harness is almost fully tucked. 
wm1d1y.jpg

Degreased the engine bay as I'm 95% ready to bolt the engine up to the body. Someone else has already been in here before me. 
0bHSKY.jpg

  • Like 1
On 12/17/2018 at 8:26 PM, Sack87 said:

 

Got the turbo back from getting rebuilt by MTQ as well. Shaft and cartridge journals were scored, some bent turbine fins and a small crack in the rear housing.

y3Hur4.jpg

 

 

Can you tell us what you had done to the turbo? Looks like a bigger compressor wheel... steel/inconel turbine? Cost? Expected power? So many questions... :)

Looking good by the way!

Edited by andynogo
23 hours ago, andynogo said:

Can you tell us what you had done to the turbo? Looks like a bigger compressor wheel... steel/inconel turbine? Cost? Expected power? So many questions... :)

Looking good by the way!

It's a Billet Intense RS I bought from Scotty a few years ago. You'll find heaps of info on it in the turbo upgrade thread, but good for 500hp he says. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Sack87 said:

It's a Billet Intense RS I bought from Scotty a few years ago. You'll find heaps of info on it in the turbo upgrade thread, but good for 500hp he says. 

Very good- should make some decent power! 

On 1/28/2019 at 7:53 PM, Akshunhiro said:

Looks like someone had the joy of swapping out the turbo!

Yep. Everything has silicone on it to seal it up, including water hoses onto pipes. I bought a dud... 

Got it bolted back this afternoon after doing heaps of little things around the engine that are hard to get to when it's bolted in. 

zwqoJ5.jpg

 

Still heaps of fiddly little shit to go though

5HhbTA.jpg

  • Like 5
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
×
×
  • Create New...