Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took it to work and hot washed the majority of parts. Honed all the bores and deburred number 6 as that had piston melted to the wall. They all came out good but there is slight imperfection on 6 so I will be taking to to my machinist to get it sorted out.

No metal went through the oiling system so all bearings and journals are good to go.

I dodged a bullet here I reckon.

IMG_20190518_182012.jpg

IMG_20190518_181947.jpg

Yup, love that piston! Bore might be alright- fingers crossed.

Nick at Allstar in malaga might be able to tune a Link... worth looking into seeing as a few people have had success with them. Certainly cheaper than haltech. Or go the emanage route?

  • Like 1

Hey mate, awesome post, great job on it all. How did you lean it out if you had the gfb g-force 3 with Wideband integration? Was it not set up or did it just not do what it was meant to do? Cheers man and I admire your commitment to press on, I woulda wiped my ass with it by now ?

9 hours ago, sta934 said:

Hey mate, awesome post, great job on it all. How did you lean it out if you had the gfb g-force 3 with Wideband integration? Was it not set up or did it just not do what it was meant to do? Cheers man and I admire your commitment to press on, I woulda wiped my ass with it by now ?

I hadn't got around to welding in another bung or buying a sensor.

I was going off what Hobdrive was reading from the factory sensor which according to it, it never went lean. The sample rate must be too slow though.

Overboost function was set up but it didn't work. Maybe it needs a bigger range than .5psi to react quick enough.

Edited by Sack87
15 hours ago, Sack87 said:

I hadn't got around to welding in another bung or buying a sensor.

I was going off what Hobdrive was reading from the factory sensor which according to it, it never went lean. The sample rate must be too slow though.

Overboost function was set up but it didn't work. Maybe it needs a bigger range than .5psi to react quick enough.

Yeah I’m going down the same path (gfb g-force 3 and innovate lc2) as I’ve got an intense billet rs ready to go on. I’ve read overboost function needs to be set 10%higher than target boost, so maybe not enough reaction time hey!! Anyway, good job and I’m excited to see how you get on with it in the future. 

5 hours ago, sta934 said:

Yeah I’m going down the same path (gfb g-force 3 and innovate lc2) as I’ve got an intense billet rs ready to go on. I’ve read overboost function needs to be set 10%higher than target boost, so maybe not enough reaction time hey!! Anyway, good job and I’m excited to see how you get on with it in the future. 

New motor is getting, EMU tune, bigger pump, bigger injectors and the wideband setup. Hopefully safer and with more to boot.

  • Like 1
On 25/11/2018 at 7:34 PM, Sack87 said:

Built both heads up today. Only put Supertech valve stem seals in and OEM for the rest as there are no aftermarket springs or valves available for these.
YGuO1s.jpg
9MS9HR.jpg

I now have a 4 week delay on rod bearings from Japan so that's pretty much all I can do until the new year. 

Did you go oem rod bearings? What was the reason you didn’t go acl for these also?  

1 hour ago, sta934 said:

Did you go oem rod bearings? What was the reason you didn’t go acl for these also?  

You can only get OEM bearings for these. ACL and King Bearings are wrong, full stop.

Do not believe anybody who has a listing as fitting VQ25DET, as they don't.

Cheers for the heads up. Does the same apply for the mains? Oem only? What are you doing about piston and rings number 6? Do you have to replace in a complete set? I’ve read this thread about 20 times haha, so glad I’ve stumbled onto it. Also how good Is Nissan epc/amayama [emoji106]

38 minutes ago, sta934 said:

Cheers for the heads up. Does the same apply for the mains? Oem only? What are you doing about piston and rings number 6? Do you have to replace in a complete set? I’ve read this thread about 20 times haha, so glad I’ve stumbled onto it. Also how good Is Nissan epc/amayama emoji106.png

Yeah same for mains. 

You can buy single pistons from Nissan, which I did to replace number 6 and bought another set of rings. All the bores got honed so it's fresh again.

They're both headache savers but Amamaya's processing time is a bit slow. Everything is in Australia for this order yet it takes 3 weeks to get it.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Brendon (spelt your name right this time as I'm on my computer not the stupid autocorrecting phone!), I'm organising parts to do some preventative maintenance on my spare engine and am looking at valve stem seals...

 

Partsouk has oem for 4.72 (& 4.26 on amayama) each,  and I was also looking at Supertechs. Where did you get your supertechs from and are they the same as rb25det or similar? 

Have your parts come in yet? Cheers, Andy

Edited by andynogo
7 hours ago, andynogo said:

Hey Brendon (spelt your name right this time as I'm on my computer not the stupid autocorrecting phone!), I'm organising parts to do some preventative maintenance on my spare engine and am looking at valve stem seals...

 

Partsouk has oem for 4.72 (& 4.26 on amayama) each,  and I was also looking at Supertechs. Where did you get your supertechs from and are they the same as rb25det or similar? 

Have your parts come in yet? Cheers, Andy

Supertech end up cheaper than stock and they're better.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272798735032

Amayama and Partsouq have no rod bolts so you have to pay 3x as much to get them from Melbourne. In saying that though, I got them overnight instead of 3 weeks

9 minutes ago, Sack87 said:

Supertech end up cheaper than stock and they're better.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272798735032

Amayama and Partsouq have no rod bolts so you have to pay 3x as much to get them from Melbourne. In saying that though, I got them overnight instead of 3 weeks

Thanks for that. Set ordered.

So, I got the motor pretty much buttoned up on the weekend. Got screwed around with rods bolts not being available for two suppliers and ended up paying 3x as much to get them from over east.

EMU was purchased and I just finished sorting out it's harness tonight. Deutsch plugged it so it can be removed easily if needed and labelled all the wires relevant to run. Still need to do the engine harness to match now.

Got a Kinugawa dual port gate coming, innovate LC2 wideband, silicone coolant hoses, new catch can to modify and a fuel pump. Need to buy injectors, new coil packs, plugs, Greddy MAP sensor and looking at possibly getting a stall as well.

 

IMG_20190622_160549.jpg

IMG_20190623_193214.jpg

IMG_20190623_193229.jpg

  • Like 2
23 minutes ago, andynogo said:

Looking good. Will be very interested to see how the emanage goes- was thinking of that for mine. Who's going to tune it?

Using the tune Matt has online and C-Red to clean it up. No one else will really touch the EMU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...