Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 gtst hot issues

Hey,

So ive got a 1992 gtst type m that i picked up recently. Its got 100,540km on it now and i just did the timing belt, put on a cheap diy intake and thats it. The car is in spotless condition.

Now im having an issue with the car when it warms up. Originally it would just start hard after the car had been driven. Now the car will start fine cold with no misfires or anything, but as soon as it gets to operating temp it just stalls. If you crank it over the idle will be high, around 1800rpm and then it will start to idle hunt from about 800 to 1800rpm. If you give it any throttle input itll stop at 2500 rpm which im assuming its a limp mode?

I replaced the ignitor and checked all fuses throughout, but im running out of ideas. 

Any help would be appreciated!

Dan

20170820_153441.mp4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471718-r32-gtst-hot-issues/
Share on other sites

Small update.

I unplugged the MAF while it was idle hunting and when i plugged it back in the idle INSTANTLY dropped back to normal and the car stopped running in limp mode.

So now the car is back to starting hard after its warmed up. Itll start up but immediately die. Then it takes 10 to 15 seconds of cranking before it sort of "coughs" to life and then runs perfect again.

Well i still have the factory parts and i may put it back to stock. That being said when i got the car the MAF wasnt tightened down in the inlet tube. Its a super tight fit even getting to the clamp which might be why it wasnt done up properly.

As far as i can tell this car was dealer maintained its whole life.

Ordered a used maf hopefully itll help with my issues. Also going to pull my stocker apart and see how bad it is.

Reading through a few posts scattered across the net, some people said the contact points in the connector have fallen apart due to time and heat among other things.

  • 1 month later...

So the idle hunt and other issues were solved with a remanned afm but im still having hot start issues.

In the morning the car fires up fine but getting in after work the car will fire up and the immediately die. Then the engine will crank for 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. Today i noticed smoke from the exhaust and it appeared to be black. Ive also smelled fuel when the car needs to crank longer.

Is it possibly leaking injectors maybe?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...