Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys need a bit off help. At the moment I'm running stock boost of 6 psi. I originally had a boost tee hooked up but it was boosting up around the 15 psi mark. So I removed it and threw it away and ordered a new boost tee. It arrived today and I hooked it up and I'm having the same issue. On the lowest setting it is boosting around the 15 psi mark. So I brought a new vacuum line and hooked that up. Still over boosting. I've checked everywhere for any vacuum leaks and can't find anything. Am I missing something. Also yes the boost tee is hooked up the right way. The arrow is pointing to the actuator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472064-r33-overboosting/
Share on other sites

Update

So I wound the turbo towards more boost. Still over boosting around 16psi. I've shorten my vacuum line from intake manifold to my turbo tee to my turbo actuators and still no difference. Bit lost

Does your car have an aftermarket intercooler and piping on it? The stock cold side cooler pipe has a nipple on it for boost reference. I connect boost controller to that. You may want to change your vacuum line to somewhere before the throttle body.

 

While it's still advised, I recently did it myself, and did it off the black pipe coming from the turbo, I doubt this will fix your issue, I had mine running off the manifold for years and it was fine, just changes the characteristics of how it comes on. 

If the actuator is working (i.e. 5/6psi with no boost-T) then the only factor is the Boost-T itself, How far did you wind it to the '+' side earlier? and when doing so does the winder go into the body or out of? 

  • Like 1

When I'm winding the turbo tee towards the more boost +. It is coming out of the body of the turbo tee. I wound it all most all the way towards the + but stopped cause it stopped clicking and I thought the knob was going to come off.

6 hours ago, GTofuS-T said:

While it's still advised, I recently did it myself, and did it off the black pipe coming from the turbo, I doubt this will fix your issue, I had mine running off the manifold for years and it was fine, just changes the characteristics of how it comes on. 

If the actuator is working (i.e. 5/6psi with no boost-T) then the only factor is the Boost-T itself, How far did you wind it to the '+' side earlier? and when doing so does the winder go into the body or out of? 

Whilst I don't disagree, he had the same issue with the previous boost tee he was using...so unless they're the same model of boost tee, I think it'll be in the plumbing of what he's done or something to do with that solenoid that changes boost depending on RPM.

Speaking of, have you tried grounding that yet for the constant boost pressure?

Make sure no splits/leaks in the vacuum hose going to boost tee.

They are two different turbo tees. One was turbo smart and other is neon. As shown in photo. Why solenoid are you talking about. If it's the one where the factory boost lines went to. That is not in use anymore cause I've got the turbo tee in line. Hoses are all is good condition.

Well assuming you can connect that hose to the boost tee directly to the actuator and get 6psi, it can only be the boost T responsible.

I'd just get an RB20 actuator and fit that...think they are 10psi stock from memory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
    • You have to continuously fill it to avoid dry running. Personally the transmissions I've serviced have never been bad enough to justify doing this because it is definitely a pretty complicated and somewhat risky procedure compared to simply draining the pan, measuring what came out, then refilling with the exact same amount.
×
×
  • Create New...