Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Target 400 RWKW RB25 DET Torque Plate?

Hi,

I've done some searching and couldn't find a response, sorry if it does exist or if this has been discussed already. I'm building an engine currently for my time attack car. I'm a control freak and want to manage all of the build that i possibly can. However I am not a machine shop so don't have that gear. I've got a machine shop lined up and intend to have my block torque plate machined. Meaning that the rings should also be gaped with a torque plate. So I should provide them with the rings etc and have them gaped. My problem with that is I cannot then check those without the torque plate at home. Now I've just had a light bulb moment... Why not bolt the head on and gap the ring from the underside as I'll have the bare block on a stand. Am I missing something? Is there any reason I cannot do this? Am I an idiot for thinking this is a good idea? Any engine builders or experienced guys want to poke holes in it? I can think of some small negatives but nothing drastic really, just having to reach further in with the feeler gauges, might be harder to square them while deeper in and poor light really. apart from that... I can't see why not? Admin sorry if I'm in the wrong topic, seemed to be the best one.

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You can do it that way.  But given how often your machinist probably needs his RB torque plate, you could probably just borrow it for a week.

That would be idea, but I've never used these guys before, don't know if they'd be down with that. I know if I was them I wouldn't load one out, different story for a long time customer or someone you know personally.

Whats a 400kw torque plate?

I dont build engines or machine things. Are there different kinds of torque plates for different power applications? Just curious thats all.

Edited by Cyko34
34 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

He's just advising that his target for the engine is 400kW and that is supposed to provide background on how important the idea of using the torque plate when doing the rings is.

Correct, just emphasizing the fact it will need to be right, if I was just slamming together a fresh stockie I wouldn't both with any toque plate at all, let along using one while trying to gap the rings. But for this I am going to a great deal of time and effort to make the engine as efficient, safe and powerful as I can within reason and for my goals.

On 9/20/2017 at 9:23 PM, Tangles01 said:

That would be idea, but I've never used these guys before, don't know if they'd be down with that. I know if I was them I wouldn't load one out, different story for a long time customer or someone you know personally.

If  you are going to use them for the machining you could give them a cash deposit.

To just say that a torque plate is required to adequately measure ring gap is not necessarily the best way to approach this issue you are spending an excessive amount of time investigating. There are so many other factors that require consideration. Fuel used? Target rpm? Target boost? Target CR? Combustion chamber and piston crown design? Engine block prep? Parent bore or Ductile iron sleeve? Piston to bore clearances used? The list just goes on and on. If you are so hung up on a torque plate and making sure the deck is square and bore is true, measure it all and make a decision from there. If this is all a bit much for just working out ring gaps, get it to an experienced builder. 

On 9/23/2017 at 5:36 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

If  you are going to use them for the machining you could give them a cash deposit.

Yeah, another good idea, I'll see how I go, but also good to have the backup plan, no-one can poke a hole in the upside down access whit the head bolted on yet, so I know I can do it if needed. Cheers.

On 9/20/2017 at 11:52 AM, Tangles01 said:

Target 400 RWKW RB25 DET Torque Plate?

Hi,

I've done some searching and couldn't find a response, sorry if it does exist or if this has been discussed already. I'm building an engine currently for my time attack car. I'm a control freak and want to manage all of the build that i possibly can. However I am not a machine shop so don't have that gear. I've got a machine shop lined up and intend to have my block torque plate machined. Meaning that the rings should also be gaped with a torque plate. So I should provide them with the rings etc and have them gaped. My problem with that is I cannot then check those without the torque plate at home. Now I've just had a light bulb moment... Why not bolt the head on and gap the ring from the underside as I'll have the bare block on a stand. Am I missing something? Is there any reason I cannot do this? Am I an idiot for thinking this is a good idea? Any engine builders or experienced guys want to poke holes in it? I can think of some small negatives but nothing drastic really, just having to reach further in with the feeler gauges, might be harder to square them while deeper in and poor light really. apart from that... I can't see why not? Admin sorry if I'm in the wrong topic, seemed to be the best one.

One thing you are forgetting is that there will ( should ) be a mains girdle in place when the block is bored/honed and this should be in place also when setting the ring gaps with the torque plate on.You will find it pretty difficult with the mains girdle in place to get in there from underneath...

 

Jason

On 9/30/2017 at 12:45 PM, infomotive said:

One thing you are forgetting is that there will ( should ) be a mains girdle in place when the block is bored/honed and this should be in place also when setting the ring gaps with the torque plate on.You will find it pretty difficult with the mains girdle in place to get in there from underneath...

 

Jason

No not forgetting the mains being bolted up, yep will be a pain in the arse, but has been considered. If i decide to do it this way I'll let everyone know how much of a pain it is and If i think it's worth it lol.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...