Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

So not much more big progress on the sil80. Removed the radiator and got it chemically cleaned as I had left water only in the system for over a year, cleaned up the thermostat housing and inspected the thermostat which I'll replace as a precaution. Got some stainless steel bolts and washers to mount the new heatshield I made. Struggling to find a quality 14inch thermofan that will fit as I don't think a 12inch will be upto it(I have a 14 inch pusher on the condenser). Got the lines and new reservoir to finish the power steering off.

IMG_20200806_165731.thumb.jpg.f5bbb7ffbcad2953f278e18f272ed260.jpg

IMG_20200806_165749.thumb.jpg.0c986ea9751abcdbdf0fa8e67370e441.jpg

That's about where I got to before I found out the car club I am part of looks like to be running a super sprint for the supertaxi event here so have directed attention to getting the race car ready for it. It's still in Brisbane but have organised new front lca with ball joints and a replacement tierod end for the broken one. Going to remove the vented bonnet and go back to factory steel as it is a lot better condition and looks neater so have prepared it for paint over the weekend. 

IMG_20200806_111548.thumb.jpg.c9cc8257229aef9818d239c328046890.jpg

IMG_20200806_164911.thumb.jpg.5a199fb3c44fcf2b900ead10d12f6ac4.jpg

And to top it off I've been asked to navigate for Targa great barrier reef again this time in a pretty tough VH SS as covid border closure won't allow the regular navigator into Qld. 

70069136_2150099665289898_365562761259778048_o.thumb.jpg.ac7d6233e68d8ad22567317b78aff999.jpg

Give the cars page a like on facenovel https://m.facebook.com/car689/

Pretty busy few weeks ahead and still got to retrieve the race car from Brisbane too ? 

  • Like 1

Nice heat shield, has a Barra feel to it haha

You'll need to delete the condenser to chill a RB S13 properly. Even back in my fully sick kebab spec slam on tits RB20 180SX the 180kW Maccas Carpark stance box would overheat around the twisties with 3x 12" thermofans (1x push, 2x pull). In the end, ripped out the condenser, ran 2x in push and no more over heating.

13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nice heat shield, has a Barra feel to it haha

You'll need to delete the condenser to chill a RB S13 properly. Even back in my fully sick kebab spec slam on tits RB20 180SX the 180kW Maccas Carpark stance box would overheat around the twisties with 3x 12" thermofans (1x push, 2x pull). In the end, ripped out the condenser, ran 2x in push and no more over heating.

Yes want a bit more of a factory look once its all finished.
Yeah I removed the condensor back in 2008 when I had heating dramas when I first moved to Townsville but I am determined to have AC in this car as I really want to be able to drive it anywhere all year round. I use to run a 14 inch push & offset 12 inch pull and never went over 90C on track so hoping using something good quality (spal, motordyne) and the ducting/shroud will move enough air to keep it. Have priced up a custom radiator thats a bit thinner, cross flow & will allow a 14 & 12 inch pull setup but trying to avoid that ATM

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Getting it done, nice work. 

Thanks mate, Hows your new engine coming along?

  • Like 1

He's working on the head. I just sent an intake gasket up so he could finish porting etc 

I got a pic of some cleaned rockers the other day, apparently 3 goes at getting them clean lol

Prado is getting a new head unit and I just paid for my shed kit so I'll see that in 10-12wks and then I can get a start on building it and getting a hoist finally. 

 

  • Like 1

Spent the afternoon painting the bonnet, got the under coat sanded nicely and gave it a few coats of colour in case I need to give it a buff. 

IMG_20200809_162332.thumb.jpg.353ffaf1c2694a6a0bc7bbe708d2c548.jpg

IMG_20200809_174136.thumb.jpg.7bd3ebfe2fcb7099b8e266c1a9a83549.jpg

IMG_2795.thumb.jpg.b5c41c9b43f48ac602a1b10b0cfd0bf8.jpg

Box of goodies arrived from gktech to fix the front end, the dash came back from PowerTune digital with an upgrade to the latest board and software need to fab a new bracket too and also have picked up a sponsor for the supertaxi event and the whole sides of the car will be getting wrapped/stickered up so will be a proper race car ? 

IMG_20200809_183857.thumb.jpg.d35d9a5e4309218cfbd2ecca155d9ae9.jpg

IMG_20200809_183910.thumb.jpg.5844913fde5f8df6956bce671c431fcb.jpg

I'm off to Brisbane Tuesday and hopefully back home very late Thursday night (3200km round trip ?) so can get it all sorted end of next weekend. 

  • Like 1
32 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Dash looks good, is that universal? I cannot remember what your ECU setup is. 

yes, can be used on CAN, OBD2, Consult too. Can add a gps unit for extra. Running a Link G4+ plugin at the moment.

On 8/10/2020 at 8:19 AM, Ben C34 said:

I like the lamda typo on the dash.....

 

Curious how long do they take to boot up?

Start up is a lot better with this version, will test it tomorrow and let you know 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/10/2020 at 8:19 AM, Ben C34 said:

I like the lamda typo on the dash.....

 

Curious how long do they take to boot up?

Apologies for not testing start up time got super busy. 

 

BIG UPDATE TIME 

After a 62hr round trip to Brisbane/Willowbank to grab the car have been busy fixing and tidying up the race. Get it off the ground, wheels off and Gurney everywhere to remove half of QR and barnfind dust. Got stuck in to replacing the busted tie rod end and as a precaution replaced both sides. This is how I managed to get it on the trailer after last archy session in March. 

IMG_20200816_100309.thumb.jpg.b39c0647005d46fa7fdc6d36f6ca0c90.jpg

Did a bolt check and checked fluids as they had done maybe 20mins of driving and were good. Did replace the brake fluid with some penrite 600f to hopefully keep a good brake pedal feel. 

Next was fixing up some of the paint and body damage from all the drifting. Ended up repairing the guards and skirts with a few patches but didn't get any pics. I started straightening the drivers door and got a bit carried away 

IMG_20200817_160830.thumb.jpg.f9ca9e5b2071211007d2f4b855910538.jpg

This was halfway through the repair. Also sanded the roof and a pillars as was never happy with the finish the first time. A few good layers of undercoat had everything looking heaps better so setup the spray booth and got on with laying colour. 

IMG_20200821_090215.thumb.jpg.410c0c6f912a91f39c2bf8b8ef578c5b.jpg

IMG_20200821_090226.thumb.jpg.9ae60d03a174aca04c79e382a69871b8.jpg

So with the car all assembled refitted up the te37s with fresh advan a050 in 255 all round 

IMG_20200825_100723.thumb.jpg.3c51692b07703ff59776cd66deb8edcf.jpg

Had a media thing with some local and supercars drivers

IMG_20200825_105513.thumb.jpg.f9795c9b5f9c3d9d3747d092acbf9cf5.jpg

Today had the sponsor stickers put on and now pretty much ready bar topping up fuel and going to the track. 

IMG_20200826_155908.thumb.jpg.701eca1f05a0142a9915c2a0a1c66cf3.jpg

IMG_20200826_155948.thumb.jpg.babe14fb1163047cec367aacd02e5ef6.jpg

Should be a good weekend and great to finally drive the full Reid Park circuit hopefully get some coverage on fox's port. 

  • Like 7
4 hours ago, PranK said:

Damn! It looks fantastic! 

Thanks 

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Wow not bad for a gazebo spray job, not bad at all!

Yeah it's good enough for race car , I'm actually surprised but have learnt alot each time I do it. Those pads are going to cop it 5x 20min sessions with 2 big application a lap. 

1 hour ago, GTofuS-T said:

I love those little Aussie cars

I can't wait to see how much the time difference will be between them and my car. One of the drivers has had hers for 4 years and raced alot. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

Car looks great, well done mate. Top effort. 

Thanks Dan, definitely have a go yourself when it's time to paint yours. 

 

A stop off this morning for one of the sponsors and got in the local paper too. Should put on the SAU stickers..... 

IMG_20200827_072858_099.jpg.6aefc23af42bf9d45f86586a9e4b1f19.jpg

IMG_20200827_064030.thumb.jpg.cd50626d27fc17f08f780d359c871ba6.jpg

  • Like 1

How much did sponsorship save you do you think? 

Re painting, I'm lucky that I have a few mates who are professionals so whilst it might be a DIY job, I'll only get given the sanding tasks lol 

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...