Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all i recently started pulling down my RB25 DET due to a loss in power and i was planning to send my turbo away to GCG to get it Hi-Flowed anyways.  In the process i found a substantial crack in my exhaust manifold so now i am re thinking the hi flow option as now i need a new exhaust manifold.  My end goal is running 300rwkw which i knew was a stretch for a Hi-Flowed anyway.  My question is now that i need a new manifold am i better off getting an aftermarket manifold and t3/t4 turbo or just replacing it with a stock one and running the Hi-Flowed?

At that power goal and a high-flow Id go stock too. A top mount setup will cost more and be more work. If you want more power in the future (like most of us do after a while :D) you can then sell the highflow and go top mount

Thanks for the reply's.   They do look better ceramic coated:1312_thumbsup_tone3:haha. Does anyone know what the power limit is on the stock manifold? and where i can source a new one?

 

I sold my normal rb25det manifold for 20€ here in Finland. I assume you can get a good condition used one for similar price elsewhere too as people are going top Mount all the time and just want to get rid of the oem stuff.

 

I wouldnt bother with coating. Save the money for something else

New price at $300 - $500 is OK - my top mount cost $1600 although you can get cheaper ones. Stock one will easily do 300RWKW. I bought a highflowed RB25 turbo from GCG many years ago - today I would definitely go with Hypergear

stock manifolds crack for two reasons, aftermarket exhausts weigh considerably more than stock, so they need that support bracket near the cat, it often doesn't get replaced. The second issue is the torque wrench is impossible to get into the engine bay to tighten up the manifold nuts, use an open ended spanner on the torque wrench to get a hand feel for the required torque, then replicate that torque as you are tightening the the nuts...also FFS buy a new set of studs, yokes and washers when you change the manifold, as the mani heats up it grows, too tight, or old yokes and washer and the mani will not be able to move as it should.

  • Like 1
I sold my normal rb25det manifold for 20€ here in Finland. I assume you can get a good condition used one for similar price elsewhere too as people are going top Mount all the time and just want to get rid of the oem stuff.
 
I wouldnt bother with coating. Save the money for something else
Ceramic coating is seriously one of the best things you can do for manifolds or any exhaust parts. Increases the lifespan whilst maximizing heat transfer. Not too expensive either. Cost me $200 to get the manifold coated
Ceramic coating is seriously one of the best things you can do for manifolds or any exhaust parts. Increases the lifespan whilst maximizing heat transfer. Not too expensive either. Cost me $200 to get the manifold coated
Sure it might be good for them. However most oem manifolds are still rocking good after 25 years so dont think coating them is gonna do much. And even if it did, you could just buy of new good condition second hand one for less than the coating costs. Id rather use that 200$ on a better spec turbo.
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...