Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 27/02/2018 at 1:48 AM, ERO54N said:
Hello Andrew,
Maybe really dumb Q but will extra electrical output overload stock spec fuses?
What else will I need to upgrade to run uprated alternator safely?
Thanks mate. 

Personally I would run a new 8g line from alternator to battery as the factory alternator reliability issues with the connection at the main fuse block

As for pics and specs it all with my cnc man, once he is finished I will post up.
  • Like 1

I would be 1000% down for this if i had not already commited to an ard one. The place i bought it from (pm me if you want to know) has been taking the piss really. I ordered it in November. Delays... delays... i bet it will be late at the end of this month also...

  On 23/02/2018 at 3:20 AM, jrm said:
Interested.  I'd also be interested if you have any options with higher output (150+)

You can get 150A,160A,180A,220A alternators from USA market is huge for ls engines and accessories. I saw last night 220A Alternators for $200 usd new. All you'll need is my mounting kit and your ready to roll.
  On 18/03/2018 at 10:36 PM, cul8er said:


I’m interested in one of the mounting brackets how much? And can they be bolted on to an rb26?

Yes they work on rb26
Just negotiating price with machinist to get a better price for everyone.
  • Like 1

The sense wire and idiot light connection is the same as factory so it plugs straight in. The power/ charge line need a bigger eyelet ring terminal fitted which is supplied or you can drill out the factory ring terminal eyelet to suit.

Picked up my alternator kit from Rat32r yesterday. Was a pleasure doing business. I can say to anyone thinking of getting one, he was honest, knowledgeable and true to his word. The product looks the goods.
I will report back once it’s fitted to my car.
Again, thank you mate.
Here is the photos you f it out of the car for anyone interested.
IMG_6459.jpg
IMG_6460.jpg
IMG_6461.jpg
IMG_6462.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...