Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Received my kit yesterday, and fitted it up this morning, took a couple of hours to do from start to finish including removing old standard unit. 

Everything bolted up perfectly and lines up spot on, great quality and an excellent upgrade for the electrical system ready for any added extras down the road. 

Personally I found the best course of action for fitment is to drop the old unit off through the gap between the radiator shroud and the power steering lines etc, and have the extension bracket mounted to unit not fully tightened, that way you can wriggle stuff around when lifting the new one up through the gap, hardest bit, and part that illicits the most cursing of engineering design etc. Is the placement of the lower pivot bolt, you can either see it, or you can get a hand in there to fit it, Never both! Once bottom bolt is in the rest is easy as. 

Electrical system is now a lot more stable and also a bit quieter on the belt noise level with the new pulley too, so I will be recommending this kit to all of the local jdm nut bags and passing them the info/links etc. 

  • Like 2

Yep, 100% agree, ive only recently got my car back from the workshop so haven’t done a heap of driving but I’ve already noticed the electrical system is better, before with lights on and stereo on I would see a drop in voltage and that was only running one fuel pump. I’m now running three pumps, no issues, no volt drop.
Very happy customer here.
But I didn’t fit it, I had the workshop fit it.

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Yep, 100% agree, ive only recently got my car back from the workshop so haven’t done a heap of driving but I’ve already noticed the electrical system is better, before with lights on and stereo on I would see a drop in voltage and that was only running one fuel pump. I’m now running three pumps, no issues, no volt drop.
Very happy customer here.
But I didn’t fit it, I had the workshop fit it.

3 fuel pumps? jeebus I'd hate to have your bloody fuel bill hahahaha, 2 questions... why 3 pumps? and secondly are any of them a "drop-in" upgrade that aren't as loud as a rotary13B sitting in your boot?

I might look at doing a pump and reg upgrade in the future but don't want a massively loud thing resonating in the wagon, so I'm looking for recommendations of an in-tank minimal fuss type of thing, any suggestions?

Fuel system was done by DVS Tuning, radium surge tank with twin walbro 460’s staged and another walbro in the main tank feeding the surge tank.
It’s unbelievably quiet, I’m very happy with it. Supports my 500kw and is good for substantially more should I wish to pursue more power in the future.
This is why I upgraded the alternator

  • Like 1
22 hours ago, cul8er said:

Anyone have to do a power cable to support the extra 70a due to bigger alternator ?

mine already had much thicker cable than standard due to the car having a uber-ridiculous stereo system in it when i got it, but can buy 200amp rated cable  10mm thick in super cheap which is about $8-10 a metre that'll be more than up to the task, then go to an electrical wholesaler or battery shop for the crimp on ends

  • 2 weeks later...

Just fitted a rat32r kit with an alternator he supplied. Very nice kit and straight forward instalation. Idle voltage has gone from 14.2v to 14.45v. The Attessa light is staying off now, so the only remaining issue is the ABS.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Just fitted a rat32r kit with an alternator he supplied. Very nice kit and straight forward instalation. Idle voltage has gone from 14.2v to 14.45v. The Attessa light is staying off now, so the only remaining issue is the ABS.
Do you know how i can get hold of rat32r i have messaged him on here with no response
  • 2 weeks later...

Would it be possible to see a pic of an RB spec Mitsubishi Alternator next to the LS Mitsy one please .

I'm very interested in this kit but just curious to see if the LS one is larger in diameter compared to the Nissan supplied one .

Mine would be for an R33 spec RB25DET .

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
×
×
  • Create New...