Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I’m fairly new to the skyline scene, but looking to buy an r34. 

My plan is to eventually upgrade to a larger turbo, maybe make 400-500 hp. 

Is it worth paying the extra $5000? for a gtt if I am going to redo the turbo system anyway.

I understand that there are other upgrades in the gtt, but I am not sure exactly what. 

I am not sure how much more expensive it is to turbo the gt model, compared to upgrading the turbo system in the gtt

Cheers,

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473512-r34-25gt-or-25gt-t/
Share on other sites

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

Agree with your points although buying someone elses 500hp car is not always the best option. I'd rather a stock/fairly stock and do all the work myself, that's half the fun of having a project car isn't it? Building it to where you want it to be as well as the fact you know the car has probably been thrashed already if it has 500hp.

Edited by Gymkhana
  • Like 1
1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

Cheers for the help man, kinda figured this would be the case; but didn't know there were that many differences.

  • Like 1
38 minutes ago, Gymkhana said:

Agree with your points although buying someone elses 500hp car is not always the best option. I'd rather a stock/fairly stock and do all the work myself, that's half the fun of having a project car isn't it? Building it to where you want it to be as well as the fact you know the car has probably been thrashed already if it has 500hp.

Yea for sure, definitely going to buy a fairly stock car, looking to keep this as a project car for the next couple of years at least

On ‎10‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 6:38 PM, Jhare413 said:

Yea for sure, definitely going to buy a fairly stock car, looking to keep this as a project car for the next couple of years at least

Only trouble with that is you lose your social life, own 2 pair of jeans [one with holes in the knees] and around 4 or 5 cheap T shirts with grease spots and welding/grinding holes in them and you live on noodles or cuppa soups cos you have nil time and $$$ to waste on food or clothes when there are important things like manifolds and turbo's to buy.

BTW....I have a THAT wardrobe, but my diet has progressed a little bit :) to include meat etc

Oh and get used to your gf/wife/partner rolling their eyes

But its all a journey...good luck man.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

People forget that buying a finished project car isn't missing out of the fun of a project car.

The "fun" of a project car is keeping it running and trying to use it. There's more work in keeping it running than there EVER is in building it.

Buy Jussi's car and be happy
/Thread

  • Like 2

I don't think anyone's pointed out yet that the power you can get from a genuine DET will always be more and easier than from a DE+t. So if you have a particular power figure in mind you might only have one choice really.

I've done the DE+t and the sense of satisfaction is pretty awesome. I'd have had to wait a lot longer to buy a GTT and the moment might have just slipped away. Keep saving and watch the prices rise. My budget would probably have got me a GTST at the time but I wanted the R34. It might have been non-turbo for a few years but at least I was driving it. I gradually did the supporting mods - brakes, suspension etc.  before the turbo conversion. If you're ok with spanners it's not hard, not particularly time consuming and not that expensive if you're patient about looking for good deals.

 

2 hours ago, DatsunBanana said:

...
Keep saving and watch the prices rise. 
...

Perhaps in the UK but certainly not in Aus or NZ :)

The cheapest GTT right now on CarSales is AU$8k. TradeMe has one with a 26 in it for NZ$10k...

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...