Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for not explaining more I will fill in more blanks when I'm off work. But as much as I like the single look, I really enjoy the stock look. Ive had the car for a couple years now and i got it bone stock with a little over 50k on it. Shooting for a vary Street able daily driver. I'll also put a list of mods and I have in boxes and on the car later. 

Even with twins, you'll get fisted for height, noise, emissions, tint, aftermarket suspension bits, blah blah blah..

Just go single, quiet exhaust, make everything black and never worry about 1 out of 2 of your turbos blowing seals or exploding. Also you'll have better heat management going single.

Wouldn't it still be cheaper to re-build the -5 turbos and fit all the parts you have up?  Unless you are buying a second hand single kit with turbo, manifold, fabricated dump pipe, the process will set you back anywhere from $10-15K in parts + labour,  where as rebuilding the -5s will set you back $1500 and fitting everything you have up will probably cost $2-3K depending where you go.

Well supposedly the turbos we're freshly done before I got them. What my theory is maybe they need restrictors sense they are only supposed to see 45psi oil pressure and I believe the stock RB26 hits around 60psi at 4k rpm? But I could be wrong. If anyone with experience could share there experiences that would be nice.

Ditch the MAF and go to a MAFless setup, too many issues with modified cars and MAFs, yes they're "better" at calculating airflow, etc. but it's not worth the headache.

MAP sensor, IAT is pretty much all you need, if you're a little bit more cluey then barometer sensor (convert the onboard MAP sensor to it and run an external 4 bar) is good too, but generally most street cars/weekend circuit cars are at sea level.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
×
×
  • Create New...