Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking to put all new rubbers in the front end of the 32 as it is getting a new engine so thought i would while its all out.

ive looked around and have two options that ive found, nolathane or superpro

Whos has used each?

Recommendations?

Price etc?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473971-nolathane-or-superpro/
Share on other sites

Well, yeah.  Superpro is pretty much the default choice.

Look up my recentish posts on the topic of the GKTech FUCAs.  Worth a look at, even if they aren't road legal.  Urethane bushes in the stock Nissan 32 FUCAs arre not great.  Same same with using rose joints on the caster rods, rather than urethane bushes in the stockers.  I posted years and years ago about how much better they were.  If you were to do those things, then the only remaining bushes in the front end are the lower control arms and the ARBs.

I've been running just about every superpro bush since 2012. Control arms, castor, steering rack etc. While they're fine and have been silent, if you can simply put in a new adjustable item with new bushes, do that. Don't bother replacing the bushes.

2 hours ago, Adz2332 said:

whiteline do just the replacement bushes also?

i'm pretty certain whiteline and nolathane are same company (Redranger Pty Ltd). I have some whiteline, some nolathane, some superpro across the car...can't say I see a difference, just the different design you may prefer between manufacturers, eg, diff bushes. Urethane bushes have been around that long I'd be surprised if either company had some miracle advantageous compound over that of their competitor...but still charge a similar price for their product. I'd use whichever you can get cheapest.

Although as above, might be better to just spend a little more and get whole new adjustable arms, and some bushes are better rosejointed.

hmmmm....I saw a pair of gtech upper arms snapped at the welds just last week. the car looked hard to drive after that. I suspect there is no good option for 32 upper arms, maybe the nismo brackets are the best idea.

I did run nolathene bushes back in the day, pretty sure they went broke and got bought our like Andy said. They worked fine but degraded quickly over time, they only lasted 1-2 seasons before needing re-doing which was a PITA to do again.

Hmm. I flogged out the trailing upper front bush in one track day. It was a white line. Thing that fixes it is moving the pick up point for that link.

Do the super pro bushes have pigtails for grease retention. The photos don't appear to show them. Or are they all the same? The nolathane bushes are dimensionally the same as the Whiteline bushes.

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

hmmmm....I saw a pair of gtech upper arms snapped at the welds just last week. the car looked hard to drive after that. I suspect there is no good option for 32 upper arms, maybe the nismo brackets are the best idea.

I did run nolathene bushes back in the day, pretty sure they went broke and got bought our like Andy said. They worked fine but degraded quickly over time, they only lasted 1-2 seasons before needing re-doing which was a PITA to do again.

That's not really what I wanted to hear about the GK-Tech uppers.  I'm going to have to cross my fingers and hope, because I'm not going back to stock arms.

 

The recommendation for stock arms is all well and good, but if you need to correct camber you're up shit creek with the stockers.  That's the reason that I put (originally) Whiteline and then at least 2 sets of Superpro in the front of my car over the years.  Even with grease nipples added (I added them myself in ~2002) the bushes take a beating.

I might have to modify my spare brackets to Nismo spec and try with new urethanes in my adjustable stockers if I break a GK-Tech arm. 

well the good news is my upper arm bushes have been lasting twice as long (you know 3-4 weekends instead of 1-2) since I move the LCA mouting points outwards 20mm. Its definitely a 30 year old geometry issue.

9 hours ago, Meathead said:

If your OEM ones are flogged out just replace them with OEM or Nismo.

Wouldn't waste my time with short duration cheap plastic stuff unless you like pulling it down a lot.

 

 

Who sells OEM?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...