Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at grabbing a LSD from a 6 speed V35. 

Having trouble finding information confirming that it's a direct fit to the 3.5 RWD Stagea. 

Different forums mention things about splines not lining up and ratios being different...

I am aware the LSD's from ARX etc will fit easy, but I have the opportunity to get a cheap V35 diff.

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474231-pm35-swap-diff-with-v35/
Share on other sites

They are both R200 diffs, from similar era cars, so it is likely that the housings/mountings etc are compatible.

Splines not lining up is not a problem unless the LSD has different stub axles to what the other diff has.  This is actually a strong possibility.  So if you have to keep the stub axles that belong to the centre, then you may have to look at swapping driveshafts too.  This is possible.  Most (OK, not necessarily most, but certainly many) Nissan driveshafts swap from family to family.

Ratio difference is something that you will have to work out if the change is good or bad.  It will throw your speedo out.  That's always bad.  If you can't take it, then you will be looking at swapping the CW&P from your original diff onto the LSD centre.  This is a complete disassemble of both diffs and reassembly (and proper setup) of at least one.  This is usually possible, but Nissan do have a habit of launching surprises at the unwary, where the CW bolts are different sizes in two otherwise similar diffs.

The other problem that may crop up is differences in the ABS sensors and rings.

Thankfully my engine is stock, so a VLSD will work just fine. Just as they do in the AWD Stageas, 350z and V35 cars already. I used to run a tiny stock Mazda VLSD in my 260hp MX5 NA with zero troubles, so not sure what level of power you are talking about

If youre going to the trouble of swapping diffs, its worth getting something half decent. Especially if you dont knkw if its a 100% fit.
I upgraded to NM35 helical diff for my mechanically stock car and very happy with that choice. Due to the immense variety of R200 diffs, you just dont really know until you go to put it in.

  • Thanks 1

Don't be a f**kwit.  You asked.  I answered with useful info.  I also told you that if it was a VLSD it was a waste of time, not knowing whether Nissan persisted with putting those useless lumps of shit into cars after the R3x era.  Now that I do know, I can authoritatively tell the next guy that it is definitely a bad idea.  Thanks, you have helped the forum.

Put it this way, if you have a car that will work well with a VLSD, you don't really need an LSD at all.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
On 6/9/2018 at 9:38 AM, NicPM35 said:

The issue I'm concerned about is ratios and fitment, not what type of lsd i should be using.

and like I said, with fitment you won't really know until you go to put it in. Unless the info is on SAU or a Canadian/UK Skyline forum, you probably won't find the information via google.

The Y34 has almost identical rear end to M35/V35/Z33, all using R200 diff. I think all used 6x1 bolt half-shafts with external ABS rings on the half shafts. and NM35 helical diff needed a fair chunk of one of my half shafts machined off to fit it. The diff, fitting and machining was a bit over $500 total, which is considered a decent total price for a helical diff.
My point is, how much do you plan to save trying to use V35 diff? the cost could potentially be much higher than just sourcing something that others have proven to fit without issue.

  • Thanks 1

The only options I've heard are aftermarket and cost out the arse. If I can get anything that is not an open diff, second hand on the cheap, then sign me up!

I agree you will never know for certain until you fit the diff yourself, that's why I'm asking on a forum for first hand experience. 

I see second hand diffs going for $150-250 online, so not sure why everyone is scolding me for wanting to throw in a dirt cheap replacement for a stock standard car with a shitty open diff. It's a great idea I think! 

Try and get an OEM helical diff from a M35 or whatever LSD the 350Z track edition runs (unless its viscous, then avoid) and get a decent mechanic or diff specialist to fit it.

Youre right, aftermarket diffs are not worth the price for basic setups.

 

I tried an R34 R200 helical diff but the dimensions of the diff centres seemed completely different.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...