Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay, so I've got my dream car, until I can afford myself a R35 haha. I love my 34, it's a manual 98 model. So far, engine wise, I've added a GFB 6 Preset Electronic Boost Controller. On the way, which will arrive in the next week and be in by the 28th, is a 6 boost Exhaust Manifold, 1000cc Injectors, Nistune ECU, Madcat intake manifold, fuel rail and 90mm throttle body, Walbro 460 Fuel Pump and my big 900mm Front mount intercooler. I'm planning on getting this all in within a few days of flying back home from work. I know what I'm doing adding all this stuff, it's really not hard, just a bit fiddly. I've got a few questions though..

 

So obviously the upgrades listed are quite substantial, and will allow me to handle quite a bit more horsepower, but I'm wondering what Turbo to upgrade to? Or even better, whats an easy way to know what turbo I can fit? As most of you would know, my manifold turbo mount supports a T3 fitting. I'm wanting at least 350HP at the wheels, but if it's possible with these specs, I'd love 400HP at the wheels. I understand the turbo plays a bit part of this, hence why I need some advice. And yes, I am aware a tune would be needed to support the rest of the mods.

 

My second question is related to Anti Lag. So my Nistune ECU I'm getting is plug and play, and I've heard that when it comes to anti-lag, you can have it wired to a switch. Firstly, is this possible with a Nistune ECU? And if someone could explain how it actually works? As I'm genuinely curious how a little 12v active cable being cut on and off can enable something that's programmed inside the ECU? Unless there's more to it.. cheers everyone!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474440-r34-gtt-upgrading-stuff/
Share on other sites

Anti lag in bin. Just not worth doing.

You can fit any T3 turbo, because you're going to need a lot of fabrication anyway, and anything T3 both can and must be made to work.

Get a EFR 7670 in the T3 format. If you can return the manifold get it in T4 TS. This is the best option as it comes with a bov and boost solenoid too. If you can return the manifold, I'd just say go buy my kit which comes with literally everything.

Failing that, GTX3071 0.82 rear. But if you are buying new, the EFR is a better unit, and well, WELL worth the small price increase which is probably absorbed by not needing to buy a BOV which you would for the Garrett.

 

28 minutes ago, Danowner said:

my Nistune ECU I'm getting is plug and play, and I've heard that when it comes to anti-lag, you can have it wired to a switch. Firstly, is this possible with a Nistune ECU? And if someone could explain how it actually works? As I'm genuinely curious how a little 12v active cable being cut on and off can enable something that's programmed inside the ECU? Unless there's more to it.. cheers everyone!

It is triggered by road speed and can also be wired to a switch. Once a particular defined road speed is set, it is turned off.

It is for launch only and can't be used as rolling anti-lag. Also it is limited to only 0 degrees of ignition timing and can't take negative numbers. Great for building boost for good consistent launches at the drag strip. 

23 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Anti lag in bin. Just not worth doing.

You can fit any T3 turbo, because you're going to need a lot of fabrication anyway, and anything T3 both can and must be made to work.

Get a EFR 7670 in the T3 format. If you can return the manifold get it in T4 TS. This is the best option as it comes with a bov and boost solenoid too. If you can return the manifold, I'd just say go buy my kit which comes with literally everything.

Failing that, GTX3071 0.82 rear. But if you are buying new, the EFR is a better unit, and well, WELL worth the small price increase which is probably absorbed by not needing to buy a BOV which you would for the Garrett.

 

Just wondering why you'd request I return the manifold if I've got a top of the end manifold for the T3 fitting, which if you research, 99.999% of manifolds available are all T3, so there's something working right with that size turbo fitting and the Rb25 engine. I knew there would be someone with sarcastic response tell me to do something completely opposite to what I've requested. I asked what turbo I should use, not what turbo I should use if I had a totally different turbo fitting, which is impossible to find anyway. And for my turbo lag question, It was for show, and the occasional launch on the drag strip from a standstill. I've seen a few r33's and r34's parked up at car meets revving, then a few seconds of silence, and their revving turns into popping, and spitting flames at redline, instead of just the normal redline effect. 

On ‎7‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 9:55 PM, Danowner said:

Just wondering why you'd request I return the manifold if I've got a top of the end manifold for the T3 fitting, which if you research, 99.999% of manifolds available are all T3, so there's something working right with that size turbo fitting and the Rb25 engine. I knew there would be someone with sarcastic response tell me to do something completely opposite to what I've requested. I asked what turbo I should use, not what turbo I should use if I had a totally different turbo fitting, which is impossible to find anyway. And for my turbo lag question, It was for show, and the occasional launch on the drag strip from a standstill. I've seen a few r33's and r34's parked up at car meets revving, then a few seconds of silence, and their revving turns into popping, and spitting flames at redline, instead of just the normal redline effect. 

The turbo is the most/only important part.

It is the part that defines if a car is decent or not. The best turbo really right now is not T3. You buy a manifold to fit the turbo you want, not the other way around.

Can buy plenty of OK choices for the T3, but if you are going to the considerable expense of a full build, its better to start with the turbo first, then get all the pieces to support that.

4 hours ago, Danowner said:

So my entire build is out the window and is total dog shit because I have a T3 instead of a T4, that shitty T3 isn't going to get me any horsepower at all hey

GTX3582R Gen 2

What about, a T3 to T4 adapter flange? In my head out kinda doesn't make sense because it's still going to be restricting airflow that tiny bit, only a few mill difference between T3 and T4, however, the bigger better turbos can go on it, so the end result would be better if I just used the adaptor right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you tried another indicator stalk? Sometimes these go bad and cause issues.
    • They're so beautiful 😍
    • Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up to. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.
    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
×
×
  • Create New...