Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, R33LJ said:

Hi all,

 

Anyone purchased a cold air intake kit for R33 GTST? Mine is completely stock and I am wanting a pod but want it covered etc.

Good reason to keep the stock system - bring in cold air from the outside instead of engine heat.

Save your money on a better intercooler and a better ECU. Cold air intakes make marginal difference on a turbo charged car. The air coming out of the compressor is what you need to consider chilling down.

Pretty sure I've read conflicting info about the standard airbox being restrictive, but then other people are running 300+kw no problem with the standard airbox so it should be fine.
You could always just buy a pod like an apexi power intake and make your own airbox/heatshield out of something like aluminium.
That's what i did, cost me around $40 from bunnings from memory.
Seems to work well, makes the intake sound better and looks pretty cool imo.20181023_000438.jpg

On 10/23/2018 at 12:10 AM, vxsr33 said:

Pretty sure I've read conflicting info about the standard airbox being restrictive, but then other people are running 300+kw no problem with the standard airbox so it should be fine.
You could always just buy a pod like an apexi power intake and make your own airbox/heatshield out of something like aluminium.
That's what i did, cost me around $40 from bunnings from memory.
Seems to work well, makes the intake sound better and looks pretty cool imo.20181023_000438.jpg

Hey mate, it still looks totally exposed and unless you’re going fast on a cold day, it’s still going to suck in heat from the engine.

Proper CAIs have an air tunnel from either the bottom of the engine bay or front air ducts where the pod and pipping to the AFM to bring in cold air.

I agree the pod filter has a better sucking sound, but the General rule is only one air induction rule so if you have a FMIC then the pod is illegal.

 

20 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

I agree the pod filter has a better sucking sound, but the General rule is only one air induction rule so if you have a FMIC then the pod is illegal.

 

Depends on state

Hey mate, it still looks totally exposed and unless you’re going fast on a cold day, it’s still going to suck in heat from the engine.
Proper CAIs have an air tunnel from either the bottom of the engine bay or front air ducts where the pod and pipping to the AFM to bring in cold air.
I agree the pod filter has a better sucking sound, but the General rule is only one air induction rule so if you have a FMIC then the pod is illegal.
 
When you close the bonnet the exposed top is sealed up so it's similiar to an airbox. The gap on the side allows colder air from the front bumper area in. I have felt the pod filter side of the heatshield after drives and it has been noticably cooler than the side exposed to the engine.

What I've done obviously isn't going to be as effective as a proper CAI but it's better than an exposed pod filter. After all it was just something i did on a lazy arvo and only took 2 hours.

If i didn't have a return flow intercooler i would have used the cutout where the intercooler piping goes and some ducting to route fresh air directly to the the pod filter.

Cheers for the feedback though, i might look into making a better CAI with some ducting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...