Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, R33LJ said:

Hi all,

 

Anyone purchased a cold air intake kit for R33 GTST? Mine is completely stock and I am wanting a pod but want it covered etc.

Good reason to keep the stock system - bring in cold air from the outside instead of engine heat.

Save your money on a better intercooler and a better ECU. Cold air intakes make marginal difference on a turbo charged car. The air coming out of the compressor is what you need to consider chilling down.

Pretty sure I've read conflicting info about the standard airbox being restrictive, but then other people are running 300+kw no problem with the standard airbox so it should be fine.
You could always just buy a pod like an apexi power intake and make your own airbox/heatshield out of something like aluminium.
That's what i did, cost me around $40 from bunnings from memory.
Seems to work well, makes the intake sound better and looks pretty cool imo.20181023_000438.jpg

On 10/23/2018 at 12:10 AM, vxsr33 said:

Pretty sure I've read conflicting info about the standard airbox being restrictive, but then other people are running 300+kw no problem with the standard airbox so it should be fine.
You could always just buy a pod like an apexi power intake and make your own airbox/heatshield out of something like aluminium.
That's what i did, cost me around $40 from bunnings from memory.
Seems to work well, makes the intake sound better and looks pretty cool imo.20181023_000438.jpg

Hey mate, it still looks totally exposed and unless you’re going fast on a cold day, it’s still going to suck in heat from the engine.

Proper CAIs have an air tunnel from either the bottom of the engine bay or front air ducts where the pod and pipping to the AFM to bring in cold air.

I agree the pod filter has a better sucking sound, but the General rule is only one air induction rule so if you have a FMIC then the pod is illegal.

 

20 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

I agree the pod filter has a better sucking sound, but the General rule is only one air induction rule so if you have a FMIC then the pod is illegal.

 

Depends on state

Hey mate, it still looks totally exposed and unless you’re going fast on a cold day, it’s still going to suck in heat from the engine.
Proper CAIs have an air tunnel from either the bottom of the engine bay or front air ducts where the pod and pipping to the AFM to bring in cold air.
I agree the pod filter has a better sucking sound, but the General rule is only one air induction rule so if you have a FMIC then the pod is illegal.
 
When you close the bonnet the exposed top is sealed up so it's similiar to an airbox. The gap on the side allows colder air from the front bumper area in. I have felt the pod filter side of the heatshield after drives and it has been noticably cooler than the side exposed to the engine.

What I've done obviously isn't going to be as effective as a proper CAI but it's better than an exposed pod filter. After all it was just something i did on a lazy arvo and only took 2 hours.

If i didn't have a return flow intercooler i would have used the cutout where the intercooler piping goes and some ducting to route fresh air directly to the the pod filter.

Cheers for the feedback though, i might look into making a better CAI with some ducting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...