Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I finally had a run in with some lovely members of the QPS Road Policing command today and they decided that my factory HID's in my NM35 are illegal. Does anyone have any resources on their legality? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475398-factory-hid-legality/
Share on other sites

Unlucky. I've had a good run with retrofit HID and factory bi-xenon in various vehicles but I've always made sure they're not pointing up too high. My Stagea is set a few notches down from the top to avoid unwanted attention. I'm running 6000K D2R's from eBay and they light up the road fine. As mentioned, they are illegal since they don't meet ADR's.

Bugger. Looks like I'm chucking in some Supercheap Auto specials to pass roady in that case. I've never had any issues with the headlights as I often drive at night and have made it past 18 months without being pulled over. Oh well.. Cheers for the input! 

On 11/14/2018 at 5:47 PM, GTSBoy said:

They may well be illegal.  To meet ADRs that have to have washers and self levelling.  Do they?

https://www.racq.com.au/cars-and-driving/safety-on-the-road/driving-safely/headlights

According to this, self-levelling and washers are only required if light output totals over 2000 Lumens. Colour, wavelength and UV emissions are the only criteria that must meet requirements if under that output. Currently trolling through the fun that is ADR Legislation 46/00 to find the hard evidence. I'll update when I find it...

1 hour ago, Caleb_M35 said:

https://www.racq.com.au/cars-and-driving/safety-on-the-road/driving-safely/headlights

According to this, self-levelling and washers are only required if light output totals over 2000 Lumens. Colour, wavelength and UV emissions are the only criteria that must meet requirements if under that output. Currently trolling through the fun that is ADR Legislation 46/00 to find the hard evidence. I'll update when I find it...

And typical OEM lumen output is in the order of 2500-3000 lumens.  You will not be able to work that loophole.

On 11/14/2018 at 5:14 PM, Caleb_M35 said:

So I finally had a run in with some lovely members of the QPS Road Policing command today and they decided that my factory HID's in my NM35 are illegal. Does anyone have any resources on their legality? 

According to QLD TMR Minor Modifications Document ;

Headlights
Retro-fitting of gas discharge headlamps (commonly known as HID headlamps) and Light Emitting Diode (LED) headlamps to vehicles that were not originally supplied with such headlamps is only permissible if it can be shown that the:
• headlamp self-levelling device is fitted
• headlamp wiper and washer system is fitted
• complete headlamp assemblies, and not just the HID or LED globes, are certified to ADR or UN ECE Regs (with appropriate markings).

17 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

According to QLD TMR Minor Modifications Document ;

Headlights
Retro-fitting of gas discharge headlamps (commonly known as HID headlamps) and Light Emitting Diode (LED) headlamps to vehicles that were not originally supplied with such headlamps is only permissible if it can be shown that the:
• headlamp self-levelling device is fitted
• headlamp wiper and washer system is fitted
• complete headlamp assemblies, and not just the HID or LED globes, are certified to ADR or UN ECE Regs (with appropriate markings).

This is pretty much the extent of the information I've found. It only quotes retro-fitting into vehicles that were not originally supplied with HID headlamps. I have, however obtained conformation from a genuine Nissan spare parts supplier that they're available for distribution through dealerships within Australia. My VIN within the Nissan computer system also shows my car was factory fitted with HID headlamp units. 

Yes, but you're not listening to what we're saying.  It matters not one jot what the OEM fitted headlights were for a car that was not sold in Australia with ADR compliance.  Bring that car into the country with those OEM HIDs and if they do not meet the ADR requirements, then they are simply not legal.  To be compliant here they must have the levellers and washers (unless they meet the <2000 lumen rule, which I guess is to cover other types of driving lights rather than "headlights".)

it doesn't matter if Nissan are prepared to sell headlamp assemblies through their Oz stealerships.  What matters is what you then do with them.  Fit them to a road-going car and the problem is yours, not Nissan's.

It's actually pretty simple.  There is no loophole for you, or any other person in the same boat.  Are there non-HID assemblies available for these boats?

  • Like 1

^True, and in Australian backwards fashion, we are rooted. A headlight designed to house a specific bulb (in this case a xenon) must be changed to halogen to suit our law? Never go full retard. What a big stuff up.
Good luck Caleb_M35

Taking the wagon to the police station to clear the defect tomorrow. Fingers crossed I can explain to the officer the complications of attempting to change to non-HID headlights...

10 minutes ago, Caleb_M35 said:

Taking the wagon to the police station to clear the defect tomorrow. Fingers crossed I can explain to the officer the complications of attempting to change to non-HID headlights...

Haha. Good luck with that !

43 minutes ago, Caleb_M35 said:

Taking the wagon to the police station to clear the defect tomorrow. Fingers crossed I can explain to the officer the complications of attempting to change to non-HID headlights...

 

32 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Haha. Good luck with that !

Exactly. That's the last thing you should do?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...