Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks, I would like to get some inputs on this issue with my R32 GTR... 

Car was on the dyno, the fuel pressure would rise to ~60psi no problem, stayed at ~60psi for about half a second then dropped to ~50psi, and then stayed at ~50psi until let go of throttle.  Idle fuel pressure stable at 43psi.

Made 315kw previously on 93 octane, now 275kw...  Injector duty cycle at 108%, but AFR stable at ~11. 

A quick run down of parts: Nismo fuel pump, R35 injectors, R35 AFM, NZEFI resistor delete, brand new OEM FPR, Nistune, Garrett -9s. 

Is the Nismo pump running out...?  Or could it be the pesky fuel pump control module...?  What does the FPCM do anyway?

Edited by TXSquirrel

My Nismo pump was purchased new from RHDJapan 3 years ago.  Sounds like the consensus is that the Nismo pump is much more likely the culprit than the FPCM? Is there any way to test the FPCM?

So if I'm to bypass the FPCM for direct feed, what gauge wire is recommended?

And what's that little valve inside the tank for? I always wonder why it's there...

 

1 hour ago, TXSquirrel said:

My Nismo pump was purchased new from RHDJapan 3 years ago.  Sounds like the consensus is that the Nismo pump is much more likely the culprit than the FPCM? Is there any way to test the FPCM?

So if I'm to bypass the FPCM for direct feed, what gauge wire is recommended?

And what's that little valve inside the tank for? I always wonder why it's there...

 

FPCM is most likely exacerbating the issue, also that valve. Nissan put those OEM valves in to bleed once it exceeds a particular pressure. 

I beleive it was mainly a safety feature in the even of clogged fuel filters, etc. however a big pain the arse when you start applying boost.

I would just simply delete the pressure relief valve and ground off the fuel pump to the body, i.e. bypassing the FPCM.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

I finally got around to diagnose this issue in detail, and I am not sure what to make of what I discover.

The FPCM is working fine, doing its thing by increasing voltage as engine load increases.  The problem is with 12v source for the pump.  I first measured the voltage at pump relay, and I was only getting 10.5v ignition on and 11.7v at idle, about 2v below battery voltage.  Then I measured at the fuse, same issue.  I tried the fuses next to pump, which are various lights, no problem at all, 12.5v with engine off and close to 14v with engine on.

So what happened between power source and the fuse harness?  How was it wired, straight off battery?  Look at the electrical diagram it's not too clear to me.  Looks like the EGT sensor is tee'd off the same source...?

image.thumb.png.90a62ac8a1f3e6a0ed6a4552ce899d7f.png

Not surprising at all, 30 year old car means 30 year old wiring, and nissans wiring was nothing great to begin with. You are just getting a voltage drop over the fuel pump power feed wire.

I will quote myself here because that was and still is the correct thing to do.

On 12/20/2018 at 7:23 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Bypass FPCM using a relay and direct power feed, and put a new fuel pump of your choice (walbro 460 my recommendation) and go from there.

 

Bypass the FPCM, useless thing to begin with. A drop resistor with new pumps is only going to reduce it's life.

You want to control pumps via PWM, if not just wire it direct to a relay.

I'm assuming you're American, stubborn and like to do things the hard way. I recall all of us telling you to go with modern larger injectors before too. 

When my tuner first noted the fuel pressure issue, he already suggested bypassing the FPCM or installing an Aeromotive fuel pump controller.  He did that for all the cars with aftermarket pump.  I am just trying to keep my car as close to factory and use Nissan parts whenever I can, so it's just me with my way.  That's why I'm running R35 injectors, which are still more than what the -9s can put out anyway.

After looking at the diagram more, I'm guessing this 12v source actually runs through the ignition switch.  So if I can get a confirmation that will be great.  Nissan did that with headlight harness, not a real surprise if 30 years ago Nissan decided to run fuel pump 12v through ignition switch.

On 12/20/2018 at 7:23 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Bypass FPCM using a relay and direct power feed, and put a new fuel pump of your choice (walbro 460 my recommendation) and go from there.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...